Backpacking Emigrant Wilderness
EASTERN ACCESS
Ironically, properly backpacking the Northernmost of Yosemite and the Eastern-most high altitude sections of Emigrant Wilderness requires access through the nub of the Toiyabe National Forest running up the West and West West Walker Rivers between the Hoover, Yosemite, and Emigrant Wilderness.
We find interesting Eastern access to all three of these wilderness areas as we hike the PCT route South down into and back out of this nub of the Toiyabe on the page below.
Leavitt Meadow is the nearest local trailhead, located down 10.58 miles of sandy trails to the North of the West West Walker River Bridge. Sonora Pass is a bit more distant at 12.63 miles, and much more difficult, bringing us up to just under 11,000 feet of elevation crossing the Leavitt Peak Massif from the 8600 feet elevation at the West West Walker Bridge. Both trailheads are located along the Highway 108 corridor.
Local backpackers looking for interesting trips into Emigrant Wilderness can find Eastern access to the Sierra Crestline and the West Flank of the Sierra through trails up Kennedy Canyon, the West West Walker River to Emigrant Pass, and Bond Pass via Dorothy Lake Pass through this "nub," or "thumb" of Toiyabe National Forest-lands reaching up the Walker Rivers between these three wilderness areas.
These trails offer lots of nice backpacking loop opportunities.
If we break off the PCT to follow the watershed of the West Walker River upriver out the top of its canyon we will find the trail splitting between branches to leading to the Twin Lake Trailhead of the Hoover Wilderness and a fine trail into the North Yosemite Backcountry through the top of Kerrick Canyon.
The upper-Left corner of the map below shows where our trail up the West Walker emerges out of the top of the river's canyon and watershed:
On this map we can see how the trail up the West Walker River parallels the Western-flank line of our PCT route, once it crosses the crest into Yosemite, but along a more direct route following along the base of the East Flank of the Sierra rather than crossing the massive set of granite canyons descending off the West flank, as does our hike South along the classic route of the combined PCT-TYT.
Post up any information or experiences you want to share, or questions you have about this Eastern access to the Emigrant, Yosemite, and Hoover Wilderness Areas through the comments links below, or the forum linked-to above.
The Tahoe to Whitney Trail Guide and Forum have been built, funded, and supported by my individual efforts, with help from my friends and family.
THANKS!
If you feel these efforts are valuable to you,
you are invited to join that group of friends and family here:
This is the first full and free classic trail guide of and on the web.
West Fork of the West Walker River & Bridge Detail
West-West Walker River Bridge
Local Camping
Cross the bridge, take a Left, and scout around for nice private campsites...
Or camp in the open space on the near shore next to the bridge.
Take a Right after crossing the bridge to follow the PCT South.
OFF-PCT
Local Hiking Options EAST
East to the West Walker River past Lost Lakes
Crossing the bridge and continuing East hiking straight through the trail junction, off the route of the PCT, first brings us to the trail junction breaking off to the North at Upper Long Lake.
Following this delightful trail brings us North past Chain of Lakes before it bends Northeast and down to intersect with the West Walker River Trail near Fremont Lake.
If we continue East past the Chain of Lakes trail junction at Upper Long Lake we quickly reach and descend into the main canyon of the West Walker River. We enter the West Walker Canyon to drop down to the base of the burnt red volcanic ridge who's crestline marks the boundary with the Hoover Wilderness to our East, and will be a major landmark we are going to use tracking our progress (and context) as we hike up to and through Dorothy Lake Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail route.
That crestline is seen in the distance on the banner atop this page, and a different angle of it is seen on the previous page's banner. (previous)
It's a local landmark.
Eastern West Walker River
Option Splits
North-South
Our trail East from the West West Walker River Bridge ends where it intersects with the West Walker River at Lower Piute Meadow. From Lower Piute Meadow we can follow the West Walker River North, downstream to the Leavitt Meadow Trailhead on Highway 108, or turn South to climb out of its headwaters bowl to access Tower Peak, or continuing Southeast up Kirkwood Creek to Buckeye Pass, from where we can easily access the Twin Lakes Trailhead in Hoover Wilderness or the top of Kerrick Canyon in Yosemite.
These maps below show Kirkwood Creek climbing Southeast out of the Headwaters of the West Walker River to Buckeye Pass and trails accessing the top of Kerrick Canyon onto the West Flank and down the East Flank to Twin Lakes.
Video
The West West Walker River and Bridge A quick look at this four-way trail junction
Take a look at the West West Walker River, its Bridge, and its associated campsites. A few feet South of the bridge we come to a four-way trail junction.
3:26 minutes
The real question here is,
"What has opened up for my exploration from here?"
West West Walker River Bridge
Trail Junction Backpacking Miles
The West Walker River Backpacking
East Flank of the Sierra Nevada Mountains
I've neglected to put much focus on the trail accessing the PCT from the Leavitt Meadow Trailhead running South up the West Walker River.
What I have explored is how our Southbound route along the PCT first accesses trails East to the West Walker River here at the West West Walker Bridge.
West West Walker River Access from/to PCT
The West Walker River runs along the bottom of the main line of the West Walker's river canyon climbing Southeast along the base of the East Flank of the Sierra. It is located to our East from here at the West West Walker Bridge. Continuing South on the PCT means our next and last point of access East to the West Walker will be at the Cascade Creek trail junction below Dorothy Lake Pass.
South of that trail junction we can again access the West Walker River one last time by hiking North up Kerrick Canyon, off the combined route of the PCT-TYT in the heart of the North Yosemite Backcountry. Hiking up to Buckeye Pass at the top of Kerrick Canyon puts trails Northwest into the top of the West Walker River and Northeast down to Twin Lakes at our feet.
The Big Bend
The West Walker River and the trail accompanying it upriver both trace out and climb along the base of a unique Southeastern bending line of the Sierra Crest that forms the shape of the Northwestern-most portion of Yosemite National Park, as it makes this unusual SE bending line South of Leavitt Meadow. This bend to the Southeast begins where the river climbs into the mountains at the mouth of where its East flank canyon drains into Leavitt Meadow.
Once we begin climbing up the West Walker River's canyon we discover that the whole line of the Sierra Crest bends strongly to the East and Southeast above Piute Meadow.
The canyon of the West Walker River is nestled in under the highest Eastern flank of the Sierra, first bordering the Eastern edge of the Emigrant Wilderness and then the Northwestern corner of the North Yosemite Backcountry.
As I mentioned too many times before, a trail climbs out of the top of the West Walker's upper canyon to access Twin Lakes in Hoover Wilderness and the top of Kerrick Canyon, which can put us square into the middle of the remote North Yosemite Backcountry.
Three
Southbound Routes
to
Kerrick Canyon
If the TYT is the "Western" route from Kennedy Meadows to Bond Pass, then the PCT from Sonora Pass to Dorothy Lake Pass would be the "Eastern" route, which would make the route from Leavitt Meadow up the West Walker River to access the PCT-TYT through the top of Kerrick Canyon our "Eastern-Eastern" route.
Leavitt Meadow Trailhead is important because it gives us Eastern access to the unique slice of the Sierra Crest running under the East Flanks of Emigrant Wilderness and Yosemite all the way down to and into the top of Kerrick Canyon. The Leavitt Meadow Trailhead into the upper West Walker offers access into the remote beauties of the Eastern Emigrant, North Hoover, and North Yosemite Backcountry Wilderness Areas along a unique approach.
Sweetness
It's just darn nice hiking up the length of the West West Walker River, however you get into and out of it.
PCT Shortcut The trail up the West Walker Canyon roughly parallels the West flank route of our Southbound PCT-TYT route to Kerrick Canyon, but on the East Flank. The trail up the West Walker eventually climbs out of its canyon to the Sierra Crestline, where it puts us at the top of Kerrick Canyon.
From there we can access the West flank route of the PCT below us where it comes through Kerrick Canyon, just a bit North of Seavy Pass.
Ironically, the route of the trail up the West Walker Canyon is a much more direct, shorter route, with much less climbing to get us from the bridge here at the West West Walker river to the Kerrick Canyon-Seavy Pass trail junction, than the standard route of the PCT-TYT along the West flank.
Beauty and The Beast
But this alternative, shorter route up the West Walker, though beautiful and unique, is not a superior route to the line of the PCT-TYT. The line of the PCT-TYT across the North Yosemite Backcountry is a superior route, being a unique and classic combination of esthetic beauty and physical brutality.
East Flank
And, as is typical of the Sierra Nevada, it's Eastern flank is abrupt, steep, sheer, and composed of arid volcanic materials pushed up against, and sometimes candy-stripped into the line of granite peaks composing the Sierra Crest South from Dorothy Lake to Buckeye Passes.
West Flank
The West flank of the Sierra Crest descends gradually Westward in the form of a series of vast fingers of granite separated by valleys pushing fingers of forest and meadow-filled terrain up between these descending fingers of granite. The forests reaching upward and the rock and water running down the narrowing canyons between these vast granite ridges up to the Sierra Crest create a remarkable environment.
We really could not have more different environments on either side of the Crestline.
The Width of the West Walker
The width of the West Walker's canyon separates the Sierra's granite crestline from the slightly lower ruddy red crestline of the great volcanic ridge parallelling the Sierra Crestline.
With our mind's eye we can see the imaginary line running along the top the Sierra Crest, which is the top of the West Walker's Western canyon wall, marking out all the granite terrain to its West as within Yosemite National Park.
Looking East we imagine another line running atop the volcanic ridge composing the Eastern wall of the West Walker's canyon, marking out the boundary of the Hoover Wilderness to our East running South.
The Toiyabe National Forest administration of the West Walker River in its canyon separates the special designations and protections afforded by Hoover's wilderness designation, and by Yosemite's designation as both a, "wilderness," and a, "national park," from the "Forest" status of the West Walker River and its Canyon.
The West Walker Canyon runs up a nomad's land of the Toiyabe National Forest wedged in between the volcanic terrain of the Hoover to its North and East with the granites of Yosemite climbing to the Sierra Crestline and running South and West, with Emigrant bounding the canyon wall to our Northwest. Things are very different on the other side of the Sierra Crest, along its Western flank.
West Flank
Granite Wonderland
Our route hiking the Southbound Pacific Crest Trail into Yosemite turns us South, climbing away from the West West Walker Bridge to cross the Sierra Crest into the granites of Yosemite. Great ridges of granite hem in the long valleys running down the West Flank of the Sierra, while up here we just descended off a volcanic portion of the Sierra Crest braketed by Leavitt Peak to our North and Grizzley Peak to our Southwest. Entering the Northwestern corner of Yosemite ends this zone of bifurcated volcanic and granite crestline and terrain, which we are climbing out of as we hike South towards Dorothy Lake Pass.
North Yosemite Backcountry
"The Washboard"
Once we cross Dorothy Lake Pass we are going to descend about nine miles down Jack Main Canyon on the West Flank before turning South to traverse this set of mighty ridges and canyons separating our position from Tuolumne Meadows, the area known as, "The Five Canyons," and the, "North Yosemite Washboard.".
This segment of trail's difficulty is significantly enhanced by the requirement of climbing and descending this set of very closely-spaced monolithic ridges and the
deep valleys dividing them.
The map on the Left below shows how the trail coming up the West Walker climbs out of the top of its canyon along Kirkwood Creek approaching Twin Lakes. The map on the Right shows the trail down the West West Walker from the Leavitt Meadow Trailhead on Highway 108.
Hiking up the West Walker River brings us to a ranger cabin where we enter Upper Piute Meadow manned by volunteers each Summer.
Well, it was. One year long ago I met the volunteer dude who lived out there for a Summer. He loved it up there. He said they tried to put a volunteer up there every Summer.
Call the Bridgeport Ranger Station of the Toiyabe National Forest for current information.
We discuss the fantastic local hiking options this opens up below.
East Side Access to the West Walker River
Bridgeport and Twin Lakes We also find access to Buckeye Pass into the top of the West Walker River Canyon via Trailhead at Twin Lakes in the Hoover Wilderness. Twin Lakes is accessible from the town of Bridgeport along Highway 395.
Feeling Loopy?
This Twin Lakes Trailhead would either be a potential destination for Southbound backpackers out of Leavitt Meadow Trailhead. Or, it would be the trail option we bypass on our way South out of the West Walker Canyon through Buckeye Pass into the top of Kerrick Canyon.
The Bensen Lake Loop Twin Lakes offers a couple of excellent trails over the steep East Sierra Escarpment into the top of Kerrick Canyon in the North Yosemite Backcountry. I've used Twin Lakes to bomb into Bensen Lake with a daypack to visit and stay with friends on the trail crews out there. They have food and shelter, I bring a sack and a shell stuffed into a tiny daypack.
Twin Lakes is also where the famous "Bensen Lake Loop" begins. This loop brings us over the Sierra Crest down Kerrick Canyon to the PCT-TYT route. We follow the trail South to Matterhorn Canyon from Bensen Lake to return to Twin Lakes out the top of Matterhorn Canyon through Matterhorn Pass, then Rock Island Pass. The Bensen Lake to Virginia Canyon 30 minute map lays out the whole length of the Bensen Lake Loop:
This is one majestic backpacking loop. It is the Northern Sierra version of the "North-South Lakes Loop" down on the JMT in the South Sierra. We also have a comparable loop around the North Yosemite Backcountry that shares the trail down upper Kerrrick Canyon with the Bensen Lake Loop.
I call this the "North Yosemite Loop."
Coming Back for More
A couple of long distance backpacking trips through the North Yosemite Backcountry can give us the grand overall context on the layout of this part of the Sierra Neavada Range. This information allows us, more accurately, entices us, to find and focus this knowledge to guide deeper explorations along shorter trips to further and more deeply explore these unique areas our long trips reavealed.
Local Hikers and PCT Bail-Out
Alternative PCT Route
Just a few feet South beyond the West West Walker River Bridge we encounter a trail junction tying together four important trails. This is an important trail junction for local hikers hiking starting South out of Leavitt Meadow Trailhead as well as those backpackers ending their local hikes through the Leavitt Meadow Trailhead.
Local hikers will find all sorts of excellent scrambling terrain to explore around here.
The rectangular area within lines drawn from here at the bridge, East to Upper Long Lake, then North along a lineto the top of the Chain of Lake, then West over to the bottom of Kennedy Canyon, then South back to the West West Walker Bridge contains a lot of interesting terrain to explore. The Southwestern corner of this area is marked on the map as Walker Meadows.
That is a very pretty quadrant of terrain.
The PCT
WINTERTIME-SNOW
Bail-Out Route This trail Northeast to Leavitt Meadow Trailhead from here (via Long Lakes and Chain of Lakes) is the standard "bail out" route for early-season Northbound Pacific Crest Trail hikers who are bypassing Leavitt and Sonora Peaks when they are covered with serious snow.
This bypass is typically used by early season PCT hikers who are not skilled or geared for the High Sierra snow conditions they will encounter crossing Leavitt and Sonora Peaks.
The bailout route exits to Highway 108 through Leavitt Meadow Trailhead, reenters the Sierra via the dirt road through the US Marine Base located a 3.64 miles East down Hwy 108 from Leavitt Meadow Trailhead. This bypass rejoins the Pacific Crest Trail by following the road across the Marine Base to the dirt road climbing the ridge behind the Marine base, West to where the road ends at the base of the valley draining Wolf Creek off the East flank of Sonora Peak.
I used to enjoy talking to the Marine guards working the gate. They had two year assignments at Pickle Meadow, which meant I'd see them a bunch of times during their stay. I was real active here during Winter for a number of years, until some injury issues stopped Winter travel. Then the Marine guards were replaced with black-shirted private contractor idiots. The contractors have been real jerks, and are paid at least three times the salary of the Marines. As a taxpayer I'd prefer they fire the private contractors and bring back the Marine guard.
I just love it when the politicians further corrupt our government to pay their bribers back by paying their "contractors" boatloads of our tax dollars!
Anyway...
Read Ike's farewell speech.
A rough trail up the North side of the valley above the end of the dirt road brings us up to Wolf Creek Lake. The PCT wraps around Wolf Creek Lake along a fairly flat ledge above the Lake between where the PCT comes off the East flank of Sonora Peak to where it drops into the headwaters bowl of the East Carson River, hiking North through what I call the East Carson Gap.
The map below almost lays out this whole bail-out route. It cuts off the gate at the Marine base.
Important Local Trail Junction Three Routes to Leavitt Meadow Southbound hikers who are hiking a trip from the Sonora Pass Trailhead to Leavitt Meadow Trailhead, or anyone ending a backpacking trip through the Highway 108 trailhead at Leavitt Meadow must depart the PCT here at the West West Walker Bridge trail junction. We have a choice between three routes down to Leavitt Meadow from here.
Hiking East through this junction opens up the options of either hiking down to Leavitt Meadow Trailhead by turning South through the next trail junction just to our East at the nearby Long Lakes via the Chain of Lakes trail or continuing East to the trail along the West Walker River. Both of these options bring us to Leavitt Meadow Trailhead, but the Chain of Lakes route is shorter.
Long Lakes and Chain of Lakes Long Lakes and the Chain of Lakes are a series of beautiful but temporary lakes wedged in an amazing channel of granite on a shelf of terrain running parallel to, and in-between the routes of the West West Walker River to the West and the West Walker River to the East.
I say temporary lakes as they are slowly being sedimented in, and lodgepoles are slowly marching into the sedimented aprons around these lakes, gradually transforming meadow into forest floor. Look around. We can see this process going on across the diminishing meadow terrain we have hiked the perimeter of since hiking South out of the bottom of Kennedy Canyon on the segment of trail down to the West West Walker Bridge.
Massive amounts of sediments are being eroded off the surrounding mountains and have been, and are being transported down the West and West West Walker Rivers through this North-South running slot under the East flank of the Sierra Crestline to eventually fan out across Leavitt Meadow. This sweet area is being slowly filled with sediments. The lakes sprinkled around the amazing granite mounds and formations are slowly silting in and growing forests. The lakes here are slowly disappearing under forests marching on the flow of sediments washing off the surrounding mountains.
Forests and Soil are on the Move here.
Nice Leavitt Meadow Loop Possibilities We have a huge amount of backpacking loop options here. Check out the Schematic Diagram and backpacking map below to help figure out the scope of backpacking loops we can hike out of Leavitt Meadow Trailhead.
From the Leavitt Meadow Trailhead we can hike 20+ mile backpacking loops to the West West Walker Bridge and back, push it out another six miles to circle around Cinko Lake, or expand our loop to incorporate as much or as little of the High Emigrant Wilderness as we can bite off.
I've met all sorts of backpackers out here enjoying these grand loops. Fishermen. Couples. Families. Solo Dudes like me. All having the times of their lives. Join Us!!
Post up your explorations here among the meadows, rivers, lakelets, and amazing granite formations wedged in-between the bottom of Kennedy Canyon South to the West West Walker Bridge, East to the Walker River and North down to Fremont Lake.
This rectangle of terrain is a fantastic place to explore on scrambles, once we get an understanding of the overall lay of the surrounding terrain.
The Southbound PCT Our route hiking South on the Pacific Crest Trail requires we take a Right turn to the South here at the West West Walker Bridge to continue South on the PCT. We will still be following the West West Walker River, but now along the other shore of the river, above its Southeastern bank. But only for a short distance.
We're climbing again, this time into a close-in densely forested channel that the West West Walker flows through on its way down to Walker Meadows from the interlaced fingers of granite and volcanic terrain along the Sierra Crestline above.
We can see that we are now solidly in a granite zone below the volcanic-capped Sierra Crest to our West. Our position along the West West Walker puts us on granite between volcanic zones. We are just beyond the scope of the ancient eruptions that covered the Sierra Crest above us to the West and the great burnt-red volcanic ridge to our East, in this fine granite zone wedged in-between. This is really cool!
We encounter our next trail junction one-fifth of a mile South of the West West Walker River Bridge trail junction.
Out of the West West Walker River
At this next trail junction the PCT bends to the Southeast, the Southbound hiker's Left, turning us up towards our entrance into Yosemite National Park through Dorothy Lake Pass. Staying to our Right through this junction follows the West West Walker River past the Western Cinko Lake trail junction and up through Emigrant Pass into Grizzly Meadow of Emigrant Wilderness.
The Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route passes North and South just a few feet South of Emigrant Pass at the Grizzly Peak trail junction, where our trails connect under the shadow of Grizzly Peak.
The Grizzly Peak Trail Junction The Grizzly Peak Trail Junction accesses the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail, giving us access to trails North, South, East and West.
Hummm... that the Grizzly Peak junction opens up a bunch of very exciting backpacking loops and trips...
Side Trips
&
Loops Grizzly Peak Trail Junction
The Grizzly Peak trail junction puts us into the heart of the Emigrant Wilderness. From the Grizzly Peak trail junction we can access everything. We can loop back to the West West Walker Bridge by three fine routes. We can hike the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail North or South from Grizzly Peak.
We can hike to the Northwest, down to Kennedy Meadows Pack Station along the Northbound Tahoe to Yosemite Trail. We can hike to the Southeast, also along the TYT to the PCT at the top of Jack Main Canyon to return to our current position at the WW Walker Bridge by hiking North on the PCT through Dorothy Lake Pass. Another great route is hiking North from Emigrant Pass over Big Sam and Leavitt Peak to Sonora Pass through the Kennedy Canyon trail junction.
The Emigrant is overlaid with a web of well-interconnected trails. Putting together the correct combination of these trails will create the perfect trip for you, your fitness, and skill levels. Ain' t the Emigrant Grand?
My whole point here is that local backpackers can use the series of key trail junctions, the Kennedy Canyon, Grizzly Peak, and Bond-Dorothy Passes to craft varying lengths of backpacking loop trips either bringing us back to our original trailhead or to one of the other trailheads along Highway 108. By a variety of routes.
I have no problem designing 70 mile loops around the high altitude sections of Emigrant Wilderness and that very special sliver of the adjacent Toiyabe National Forest holding the West Walker River watershed aloof from, and wedged in-between its three surrounding Wilderness Areas. We can tie them together with our feet.
In the map below and the fourth image below we can see that our Southbound PCT above the West West Walker Bridge is now briefly unified with the trail South to Emigrant Pass. These trails will split up .19 of a mile South of our position here at the trail junction at the West-West Walker River Bridge.
Location
of the West West Walker Bridge along the Pacific Crest Trail Route
Click the Map
Detailed Hiking Map of the West West Walker River Bridge
Toiyabe National Forest.
Distances measured North and South from West West Walker River Bridge.
NORTH
We have basically two main trails North. The main-main trail is the Northbound PCT, which is tracking Northwest by the compass in the upper-Left of the map. The other main trail North here is the trail Northeast out to Leavitt Meadow along the West Walker River in the upper-Right of the map.
We have two other trails, making a total of three trails to the Northeast from the West West Walker Bridge that all join together with the West Walker and its trail below Fremont Lake before running Northeast out to the Leavitt Meadow Trailhead.
The first is the Westernmost route North along the East bank of the West West Walker from the bridge, which shortly veers Northeast to intersect with our second trail Northeast, the trail past the Chain of Lakes. Our Easternmost trail to Leavitt Meadow is the trail running the length of the West Walker River, into which the other two trails merge before entering Leavitt Meadow.
Turning at the Upper Long Lake trail junction to hike Northeast past the sweet Chain of Lakes points us more directly towards the Leavitt Meadow Trailhead than hiking East to the West Walker River Trail. The problem with the three trails Northeast to Leavitt Meadow is that they are all intriguing trails surrounded by beauty.
A constant frustration of mine is not being able to see it all. I urge myself to patience, and put my mind towards figuring out my next moves to expand my understanding of the terrain, which expands "the list."
"The List" represents where my trail knowledge ends and trip planning begins.
For local hikes one of these three trails is a good way out to the West West Walker Bridge from Leavitt Meadow Trailhead, the other two offer good ways to loop back to Leavitt Meadow to end local backpacking loops of less than 30 miles out to the West West Walker Bridge or up to Cinko Lake. Our local short-distance backpacking loop options out of Leavitt Meadow are laid out on the maps linked to below.
I neglected to include the Cinko Lake trail linking the PCT with the West West Walker River on the Schematic, it is omitted from the Sonora Pass Region Maps, but "marked in" on the Sonora Pass to Bensen Lake map.
SOUTH
We basically have three route options South. We can hike Southwest off the PCT up the West West Walker River to Emigrant Pass - Grizzly Peak, we can hike the trail Southeast off the PCT up the West Walker River through Upper Piute Meadow, or we can continue South on the PCT between the other two routes up to the Dorothy Lake Pass entrance into Yosemite. The maps above lays out these options.
All the Rivers and their associated trails along the West and the West West Walker Rivers run Northeast out of the mountains through Leavitt Meadow on the Eastern flank of the Sierra along Highway 108. Except our PCT route North and South.
Get Your Maps On The USGS
The small detailed West West Walker Bridge map above is from the Tower Peak
USGS 7.5 Topographic Series Map
This, and all the rest of the Large and Small scale USGS maps covering the Sierra on this trail guide are available for free downloading from the USGS Store
Another link to the USGS if the above fails. They do that...
Map Planning
We can download and create our own customized annotated maps of our favorite backpacking areas. We can download the maps to plan trips through unknown areas using these amazing USGS map resources.
You're welcome to print out the maps on the Tahoe to Whitney Guide for your own use. At some point in time I'll be offering a map service.
Map Credit The
USGS Rocks
Using the Forum to Plan Trips and Collect Information
Another good tool for trip planning is to register as a member of Tahoe to Whitney, and open up a "Personal Backpacker Notes" page for each trip you are planning.
Here you can compile your backcountry information necessary to make excellent hiking plans, list your prospective campsites and daily miles between them while linking to the pertinent maps, miles, and guide pages that inform your decisions.
These pages will become part of your permanent reference materials and be a foundation for building further trips. You can add after-trip information to correct and sharpen your trip planning.
These pages can only be referenced by you if you use the "Personal Backpacking Notes" type of entry. If you use another type of entry you will have to uncheck "published to the home page" in the "publication information" category if you do not want your notes to be published across the front page of the Tahoe to Whitney .ORG Backpacking Trails and Topics Forums.
You can reopen your personal backpacking planning pages by going to "My Account" and clicking on the "Track" tab. This will list out all the pages you've constructed. To construct a page register, click "create content," and select "Personal Backpacker Notes" to create private pages only available to you through your account.
If you want to publish stories, notes, updates, or opinions across the home page to add information to the various backpacking trails and topics forums you must select another type of content.
To publish public posts under the various forums, first register, then navigate to the forum you want to post in, and select a type of content. "Trail Notes," and Backpacking "Information," and "Backpacking Stories" are all content types that get published, while "Personal Backpacking Notes" do not.
These "Personal Notes" are a great way for you to keep track of the miles and elevations of your trips, and just how you planned out your campsites, food, and gear for future reference.
Your account as a member of Tahoe to Whitney can be a helpful tool for collecting the information off this trail guide to plan out your backpacking trips.
And remember, the Backpacking Trails and Topics Forums are currently in a primitive form. The forum site is moving slowly towards a redesign that will transform it into the most informative and easy to use backpacking forums on the whole darn internet!
In the meantime it is a great feature for collecting and storing backpacking information gleaned off this trail guide and backpacking forums, and id a good place to collect up and centralize information drawn from a number of sources.
Remember:
Printout Backup Copies of your important internet documents!
Websites Crash!
West West Walker Bridge Trail Junction
Four Way Trail Junction on the
Southeast side of the West West Walker Bridge
West West Walker Bridge Trail Junction
Trail junction on the Southeast side of the West-West Walker River Bridge along the Pacific Crest Trail.
The upper sign pointing towards us points the way South on the PCT up the mountain towards where the PCT trail up to Dorothy Lake Pass splits off the trial up to Emigrant Pass.
The interesting thing is that both these trails can bring us South to the top of Jack Main Canyon, not just the PCT...
The two upper destinations on the lower sign point North towards Kennedy Canyon on the PCT route to Highway 108 at Sonora Pass.
The bottom destination on the lower sign points East to Long Lakes. That trail continues East past Long Lakes where it passes East by the junction Northeast up to the Chain of Lakes, continuing East to descend into Lower Piute Meadows along the West Walker River in its sweet canyon.
At Lower Piute Meadow we pick up the trail running the length of the West Walker River, from its trailhead on Highway 108 at Leavitt Meadow up to the top of its headwaters bowl.
The best map I have up of the length of the West Walker River is the
The Pacific Crest Trail
The West West Walker Bridge to the Eastern Cinko Lake Trail Junction
Cinko Lake Loop
The trail quickly splits hiking South from the West West Walker Bridge on the Southbound Pacific Crest Trail. The trail to the Left follows the Southbound PCT. The next trail junction hiking in either direction is the Eastern Cinko Lake trail junction.
The trail to the Right is the trail up to Emigrant Pass. The next trail junction along that trail is the Western Cinko Lake trail junction.
The trail to the Left is the PCT up to Dorothy Lake Pass. The next trail junction along that trail is the Eastern Cinko Lake trail junction.
A Northbound Video
This video covers the segment of the Pacific Crest Trail hiking North from the Eastern Cinko Lake trail junction along the PCT down to our current position at the trail junction on the East side of the West West Walker River Bridge.
This is a distance of 2 miles, mostly descending as we hike North.
There's another Upper Cinko Lake trail junction, the Western junction along the trail up to Emigrant Pass. Cinko Lake lays along a trail connecting the PCT to its East with the trail to Emigrant Pass to its West.
We have Eastern and Western trail junctions bracketing Cinko Lake, which are convenient for turning a loop out of Leavitt Meadow Trailhead back towards the trailhead.
If we were planning a short, say 20 mile loop out of Leavitt Meadows Trailhead to the West West Walker Bridge, we have the option of adding another 7 miles or so by pushing our loop just a bit further South through Cinko Lake.
The miles from the bridge through Cinko Lake on both trails is laid out above.
We can hike one way in via Fremont Lake to Cinko Lake and another route returning via Fremont Lake. Or we can use the West Walker for a leg of local trips to Cinko Lake. This area has a variety of very interesting local route options.
Trail Junction on the Southeast side of the West West Walker River Bridge Detail Hiking the PCT Southinto Yosemite via Dorothy Lake Pass
Southbound PCT
Southbound PCT up along the West Walker River very quickly brings us to our next PCT trail junction, where a left-turn to the Southeast exits the West West Walker River valley turning towards Cascade Creek up to Yosemite.
Alternatively, continuing Southwest past this next PCT junction up the West West Walker brings us to the nearby Cinko Lake trail junction.
We can cut over to the PCT via Cinko Lake as well.
Continuing Southwest past the Cinko Lake trail junction brings us up through the headwaters of the West West Walker River to Emigrant Pass, which sits next to Grizzly Peak, where we intersect with the route of the TYT coming across the High Emigrant Basin from Kennedy Meadows Pack Station.
Sign Pointing East and West near the West West Walker River bridge
Local Landmarks
Piute and Walker Meadows sign. Piute Meadow to the East along the West Walker River, Walker Meadow back to the North, the way we came South along the PCT.
The noting of meadows points out an interesting feature of this area: The West-West-Walker, the Chain of Lakes, and the West Walker all run parallel and very close to each other, separated by distinctively beautiful steep and narrow granite ridges.
Each channel between these close-spaced formations is full of river, rock, forest, and meadow terrain that is real sweet.
There is a unique little zone between these meadows that warrants further exploration.
The map linked to above can be magnified in your browser for close inspection. The red dots along the main trail routes marked on the maps bring you to the specific trail guide entry for that location. Each map is linked to the next map continuing to the North and South along the main trail routes, and to the East and West as necessary to depict the connections between the main Pacific Crest and Tahoe to Yosemite Trail routes.
Explore the maps and the guide pages, then get out and explore this special section of the Toiyabe National Forest and its associated trails through the Emigrant Wilderness. It will enrich your life.
The West West Walker Bridge is the center of a triangle of trails up to Cinko Lake. Note on the map that Cinko Lake is situated between the trail running up the West West Walker to Emigrant Pass and the Pacific Crest Trail to Cascade Creek.
This trail configuration makes Cinko Lake a premium turnaround point for backpacking loops out of Leavitt Meadow.
Hiking .19 miles South on the Pacific Crest Trail from the WW Walker Bridge
we encounter the next
trail junction
The PCT Bends Southeast
.19 miles South of the West West Walker Bridge Southbound hikers on the PCT route veer Left through a Y in the trail towards Dorothy Lake Pass.
The sign is also pointing Southwest towards Cinko Lake & Emigrant Pass, to our Southbound Right, continuing up the West West Walker River. The Southbound Pacific Crest Trail veers left here, to the Southeast, towards Dorothy Lake Pass.
Here Southbound hikers on the PCT route begin climbing out of the granite channel cut into the terrain the West West Walker flows down to cross over and around the noses of a couple of granite Sierra ridge arms descending off the crest into the watershed of the West Walker River on our way over to Cascade Creek. Along the way we pass by the Eastern end of the Cinko Lake trail.
We can loop through Cinko Lake to return to this point.
Past the Eastern Cinko Lake junction we approach Cascade Creek, who's course we will follow up to Dorothy Lake Pass's entrance into the Yosemite Backcountry. Turning onto Cascade Creek the forest cover begins to thin as we climb into exposed terrain for the final climb over Dorothy Lake Pass.
Alternative Route South towards Tuolumne Meadows
(And to Turn Loops On)
Continuing straight up to Emigrant Pass from the West West Walker Bridge puts us in position to turn South to Bond Pass from Emigrant Pass along the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail. This route option allows us to rejoin the Southbound PCT route to Tuolumne Meadows at the top of Jack Main Canyon.
Route Selection
My criterion for route selection is balanced between what I have not hiked before against my desire to repeatedly hike trails to better understand their character and detail. I figure it takes at least three trips down a particular trail to get somewhat familiar with it.
My approach generally works out like this: I hike the PCT route through an area. Then I hike the TYT route through the same area. Many times. Then I come back and hike big loops tying these two routes together. Then I figure out my favorite spots, and make trips to spear them all.
The Next Step
Meanwhile, I've been scouting and familiarizing myself with the terrain during Summer to set up and push in on Winter Backpacking trips. I've explored the East Carson River, Leavitt Peak and Massif and Leavitt Lake during Winter, and have been looking to get into the West Walker during snow conditions.
Our best access to the Sierra Crest during Winter is either through one of the open trans-Sierra highways or coming in the Eastern flank off of Highway 395.
The Southbound backpacker begins the climb to Dorothy Lake Pass here, where the Pacific Crest Trail breaks off from the West West Walker River.
Northbound
PCT
Northbound backpackers have been descending since Dorothy Lake Pass now enjoy a moderate flat section around the West Fork of the West Walker River Bridge before beginning the steady climb approaching, and then up, Kennedy Canyon.
Though the WW Walker is descending as it flows to the Northeast, the Northbound PCT only stays level for a short distance before it begins climbing gently to position itself above the meadows, then steepens its climb a bit to situate itself for the turn up into Kennedy Canyon.
Once to the top of Kennedy Canyon the climb North over the Leavitt Massif begins in earnest.
At the 11000 foot high point across Leavitt Peak we've climbed 2400 feet over 9.97 miles from the low point of the trail at the West West Walker River Bridge.
PCT NORTH
West West Walker Bridge
to
Sonora Pass 12.63 miles
Fine Trail Work
High Quality Expert Trail Work
TRAIL CREW: Thanks!
This is some incredible work fitting and bedding very heavy slabs within a stable framework into custom staircases. Many sections of the hard rock work through here look like they will last centuries.
View to the North-Northwest
Granite - Volcanic Interface
East Flank of the Sierra Nevada looking North-Northwest
Here's what we're climbing for.
Hiking Southeast on the PCT route climbing out of the West West Walker River's narrow valley we turn around to take in the view North along the East Sierra flank.
Our view North is of the North wall of Kennedy Canyon across intervening terrain. The furthest ridge across the width of the image makes up the South-facing Northern flank of Kennedy Canyon. That distant red ridge is the East end of the Southeastern ridge arm descending off the Leavitt Massif.
Note the granite ridge rising up to the Sierra Crest on the far Left of the image above. Then note the difference between that and the subsequent ridges we can see further North along the East Sierra Crest. We can see the low granite of Hollywood Basin beyond the near granite terrain but before the far volcanic terrain of Kennedy Canyon beyond the basin.
The West West Walker River runs through the base of the valley before us down to the West West Walker River Bridge. Its rapid down-mountain flow moderates hitting the more moderate terrain of Walker Meadows at the bridge.
Kennedy Canyon from above the
East Bank of the West West Walker River
East Flank of the Sierra
Granite and Volcanic Terrain
Side by Side and Stacked
We're turning around to look Northwest across the East flank of the Sierra just below the line of the Sierra Crest. We're looking at fine granite terrain across the West West Walker River after turning Southeast with the PCT climbing away from the river.
The great granite wall rising above is the West wall of the canyon rising above West bank of the West Walker River. The West Walker River flows in the deep channel cut into the granite between our position and the granite face.
We are looking Northwest from the PCT from just above where we turned Southeast out of that granite channel the West West Walker River flows through.
We are just high enough to see over the West West Walker.
Note the volcanic ridge beyond the granite in the upper-Right of the image. We are looking Northwest at the volcanic terrain that makes up the Northern wall of Kennedy Canyon, which is also the Southeastern Flank of the Leavitt Massif.
The near granite cliff rising above us is the East flank of the Sierra below the Sierra Crest and is the East end of granite sticking out from under ancient volcanic flows that buried the Sierra Crestline here.
The East end of this part of the Sierra Crestline sticks out beyond the reach of the ancient volcanic flows that cap the Sierra Crestline here.
The Sierra Crestline above marks out a granite-volcanic interface.
In the distance beyond the granite wall we can see the backside of the ridge composing the South wall of Kennedy Canyon descending across the upper-Right corner of the image. That ridge is completely covered by volcanic material, except the very bottom of its Eastern extent. Remember that we hiked around the little bit of granite sticking out from under the East end of that ridge when we turned South coming out the bottom of Kennedy Canyon.
The fantastic granites of Hollywood Basin lay between the granite wall above us and Kennedy Canyon's volcanic ridge. Hollywood Basin is an indentation of granite below the Eastern flank of the Sierra between our current position and the volcanic terrain of Kennedy Canyon. Hollywood Basin looks really inviting for some adventurous scrambling.
That looks like a "hard way" to the Sierra Crest!
Maybe not. It may offer an interesting route to the base of the Southeast Flank of Big Sam in the Emigrant Basin.
PCT Route
Our Southbound PCT is moving Southeast away from the West Walker River climbing Southeast up the top of the Southern wall of its little granite canyon. The West West Walker's canyon is like a groove cut through the granite terrain. Hiking out of it up to where we can finally get views North, like the ones above and below of the surrounding terrain gives us some longer look at what the facinating interface line between the volcanic and granite terrain is doing through here.
We've passed into granite terrain, but we're still surrounded by the volcanic!
Emigrant Pass Trail Transitions
If we had remained on the trail along the West West Walker River up to Emigrant Pass we would be first hiking in the granite channel of the river with volcanic stacked above it, then along the actual interface between the volcanic material on top and the granite below, and finally up onto the top of the volcanic-granite interface capping this section of the Sierra Crest.
This transition makes the Emigrant Trail a very pretty and interesting trail from the West West Walker Bridge to Emigrant Pass next to Grizzly Peak in Emigrant Basin. More on that above.
Shifting Views hiking South
Great views of the surrounding terrain to our North and Northeast open up as we turn out of the West West Walker River to climb higher up on the PCT, especially after we turn up along Cascade Creek.
Hiking out of and above the West Walker first gives us unique views of the bifurcated granite and volcanic terrain along the Eastern flank of the Sierra, as in the image above, then our views North up the "slot" of the West Walker Watershed wedged in-between the Emigrant Wilderness to our West and the Hoover to the East really opens up as we climb past Lake Harriet and Stella Lake to Dorothy Lake Pass.
Once we get higher up the East flank we will trade in these obstructed Northern views for fantastic views to the North and Northeast, especially of the stark volcanic ridge rising above the East bank of the West Walker River Valley and the two hard to distinguish canyons at its foot.
The Western boundary of the Northern "stub" of Hoover Wilderness runs along the top of that ridge to our East while the boundary with Emigrant Wilderness runs along the Sierra Crestline to our West.
We are in a "tab" of the Toiyabe between the Emigrant and Hoover Wilderness Areas.
Our view North finally terminates hiking across the low flat crossing Dorothy Lake Pass onto the West flank of the Sierra and into Yosemite National Park.
The Hoover Wilderness PDF map below-Right lays out the boundaries, roads, and trailheads accessing the Hoover Wilderness, rather than the trails in the wilderness. The map on the Left lays out the through-trails, being the TYT and PCT and their connector trails, which is where most of our attention is centered.
West Walker River
A
Gap Between Wilderness Areas
The Hoover Wilderness Boundary runs North and South along the top of the ridge to our East. The boundary runs South down to and around the headwaters of the West Walker to where it intersects with the Yosemite Boundary out on a finger of the Western drainage running up between Hawksbeak Peak and Grouse Mountain.
The Northwest edge of the Bensen Lake to Stubblefield Canyon backpacking map shows part of the Sierra Crestline where the Hoover and Yosemite boundaries intersect.
We can also see the furthest reach of the West Walker River up the North flank of Ehrnbeck Peak.
This boundary configuration leaves the West Walker River Watershed as a pocket of territory running North and South between Emigrant Wilderness to its West, Yosemite to its South, and the Hoover Wilderness to its East and Southeast.
Hoover Wilderness Exclusion
The West West Walker should have been included in the Hoover Primitive Area grant of 1931.
The Hoover Wilderness was subsequently expanded in 1957 and converted to a wilderness area, and is apparently in the process of absorbing the West West Walker Watershed.
Presumably this means that this whole "pocket" of National Forest lands around the West Walker wedged in between the surrounding wilderness areas will eventually be subsumed into the Hoover Wilderness of the Toiyabe National Forest.
This history covers a wide swath of time and space. It lays out the very basic parameters of indigenous cultural history from 7000 bc through the "transition" to Western culture in the 1830s.
Administratively, this history covers what we call "The Toiyabe"
from the first "Forest Reserves" established in 1891 through subsequent land grants and expansions and contractions up to the mid 1990s.
I linked to the Forum page of Toiyabe History so you could post up your insights and additional sources for information about the History and status of Toiyabe National Forest and its Hoover Wilderness.
The current big issue in the Hoover Wilderness has been allowing or not allowing snowmobile activity into the prospective wilderness area along the West Walker River.
The way into the West and West West Walker Rivers is through the Leavitt Meadow Trailhead. I put up this forum dedicated to reports on backpacking trips out of the Leavitt Meadow Trailhead:
Hiking over the first ridge South of the West West Walker River.
I really like this custom staircase.
Views to the far Southeast
Unnamed Peak North of Hanna Mountain
Views to the Southeast begin to open up as we climb Southeast up and over the ridge above the Eastern shore of the West West Walker River.
Climbing to the top of the ridge East of the West West Walker gives us broad views of the ridges wrapping around the upper end of the West Walker River Watershed.
That peak in the distance is one of them, a "numbered" peak along the ridgeline.
We can begin to see the complexity of the peaks along the Sierra Crestline divided between the Hoover Wilderness and the North Yosemite Backcountry down there to our Southeast.
Detail of Ridges Feeding and outlining the West Walker River
VIEWPOINT
Bam! Reaching highpoints climbing South over the ridge out of the West West Walker River into the drainage of the West Walker we come to a fine point overlooking the terrain to the Southeast.
The predominant peak in the distance is the 11280 foot peak located between Anna Lake and Hanna Mountain along the ridge crest running to our East from our Northeast to our Southeast. Anna Lake sits on the other side of the low gap cutaway on the far Left side of the ridgeline. Hanna Mountain is hidden behind Peak 11280.
We will note our changing position in the terrain as we bend South towards Dorothy Lake Pass by noting our changing relationship to that cutout, among other local landmarks. That gap lines up with Stella Lake approaching Dorothy Lake Pass.
The crest of that distant ridgeline is the Eastern Boundary of the Hoover Wilderness. Everything on this side drains into the West West Walker River in the Toiyabe National Forest, including the runoff from our position, and from the West West Walker river behind us as well.
That distant ridge with the arc cut into it is the very Eastern wall of the canyon holding the West Walker River Watershed. The West West Walker is now behind us, and both these rivers are flowing to the Left in this image, North down to their convergence point near Roosevelt and Lane Lakes. There's a lot of complex terrain between our position here high up on the West side of the West Walker River drainage over to that ridgeline marking out the watershed's Eastern extent.
Immediately below that distant ridge is Long Canyon, which is a major subordinate canyon East of the West Walker climbing to the Southeast out of the West Walker's main canyon just a bit South of Fremont Lake. We can see a dark ridge below the most distant ridge. That ridge divides Long Canyon on its far side (East) from the main canyon of the West Walker River on this side.
The light-colored granite ridge in the foreground between us and these two more distant ridges is the Western rim of the West Walker River's canyon. We're still in its watershed, but on its Western slope up to the Sierra Crest above the main cut of the canyon below.
We're following a fold or what you could call a seam through the terrain to the Southeast (bending to the Right out of the image above) until we turn directly South for the final climb over the Sierra Crest.
This section of our trail essentially hikes around the Western edge of the watershed of the Walker River and its Western tributary, the West West Walker River. The West Walker River is a lot bigger than our brief view of it hiking around its upper Western section.
The West Walker River runs South to North from here along the base of the Eastern flank of the Sierra to drain the whole East Sierra flank up to its end at Lake Topaz in the North end of Antelope Valley.
The route of 395 runs along the West Walker River from Sonora Junction to Lake Topaz in the South end of Antelope Valley.
The narrow canyon between Sonora Junction and Antelope Valley floods violently on a regular basis, wiping out the Highway and damaging the town of Walker every 10 or 15 years or so.
I can remember at least three floods through there since 1962...
The road map is helpful for understanding how the Sierra shifts to the East South of Sonora Pass. It also depicts the West Walker canyon North to Antelope Valley along the Eastern flank of the Sierra.
I like this whole region of the East Sierra from Bridgeport up to Lake Topaz.
Northbound backpackers through this section hiking down from Dorothy Lake Pass to the footbridge across the West West Walker River may have noticed that this section is not all down-mountain.
In fact we have two distinct little sections of uphill to climb up as we head down the mountain between the upper and lower junctions to Cinko Lake.
Southbound backpackers should be pleasantly surprised that the lower half of the long climb up to Dorothy Lake Pass has a couple of level and even little downhill sections.
My Broader Point...
My point here is that the raw elevation changes between the lower and upper points of any section of trail do not measure all of the little ups and downs we encounter between the high and low points of a trail section.
Trails rarely just go up or down. Most trails go up and down. Even trails that are primarily climbs have bits of descent, and trails that descend have segments that climb.
Just saying...
Big Leverage on Big Rocks
Successive growth of trees in a crack along the edge of this rock wall are levering out big sections of rock. Note the old fallen tree, the predecessor of the current resident of this expanding crack, laying across the boulders in the image on the Right.
Next...
Campsite
Campsite. Note tent/sleeping spot to the Right of the fire ring.
Followed by a section of distinctive black and white rock.
This stuff reminded me of Serpentine rock that we will begin to see as we enter Matterhorn, and especially Virginia Canyons to our South in Yosemite, though this rock is black and white rather than green.
It has that serpentine "feel" and texture, though not the color.
Hiking further South our views of the details of the tippy-top of Tower Peak and the fangs on its Northern crestline open up.
Fk Yeah!
I have a Climbing Tower Peak story that was told to me my a Marine Lt who was stationed at Pickle Meadow. Though it is not my crazy climbing story, it's a good one, and I will relate it at some point in the future...
Looking back at the view North of a nifty section of trail along a ledge carved into a rock wall above the forested cut in terrain below.
Pacific Crest Trail hiking South from the West West Walker River. Hiking South on the Pacific Crest Trail from the West West Walker River we hike East out of its drainage over a ridge arm then along the Eastern Edge of great granite mounds descending off the Sierra Crestline above the strip of forest and meadow we see below-Right in the image above.
The East Cinko Lake trail junction. We encountered, and walked a short distance on the trail approaching the Western trail to Cinko Lake along the West West Walker River after crossing the bridge over the West West Walker River.
We turned off that trail up to Emigrant Pass and Cinko Lake at the trail junction South of the bridge.
Now we are situated on the East end of the trail connecting our PCT route with the trail up to Emigrant Pass from the West West Walker Bridge.
Hiking West to and then past Cinko Lake joins us up with the trail coming South up from the West West Walker bridge to Emigrant Pass.
Emigrant Pass sits just feet to the Northwest of Grizzly Peak.
We can pick up the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail up from Kennedy Meadows Pack Station to Jack Main Canyon to turn North through Dorothy Lake Pass.
These trails open up significant options for great backpacking loops around the stunning Emigrant Wilderness and these associated areas in the Toiyabe National Forest.
My advice: Oil up your hiking boots, pull out your pack and clothes, clean your stove, and pack your food. The Emigrant Wilderness (and this little bit of the Toiyabe National Forest) is calling you!
North on the PCT to West West Walker Bridge 2 miles
Next trail junction South at the Cascade Creek trail junction. .72 mile
South to Dorothy Lake Pass 2.85 miles
From the Cascade Creek trail junction we have the option of following Cascade Creek Northeast down to the West Walker River or South up the PCT towards Dorothy Lake Pass.
Dry Sage alongside Green Finger of Vegetation following creek
East Flank Sage
The Creek South of the upper Cinko Lake trail junction.
NOTE: The 1990 USGS 7.5 minute Tower Peak map does not depict this creek. The 1985 30 minute USGS Bridgeport map does.
This creek runs Northeastward down from high up the Sierra Crestline starting from just a bit to the Northeast of Grizzly Peak near Grizzly Lake. This creek ultimately feeds the West Walker River through a gap in the terrain to the East of Upper Long Lake to flow into the West Walker at the bottom of Lower Piute Meadow.
The campsite shown above accesses this creek as its water source.
East Flank Arid Ecosystem
This little patch of sage-terrain ecosystem is typical of huge areas running down the East Flank of the Sierra to the high altitude desert conditions running along the base of its Eastern Flank.
These dry sage conditions continue East up and over the mountain ranges East of the Sierra, and into the deserts extending East from them, water conditions permitting.
Above we see a finger of dry sage terrain reaching up to its upper Western limit of sage-growth. This little finger of sage represents aggressive sage growth reaching up into the bottom of the forest and grass zone along the East Sierra.
This "wetter" zone of forest and grass is supported by the higher moisture levels higher up on the East Flank. Below this line of moisture the East flank rapidly dries into desert-like conditions.
South of the Junction we encounter a small stream with a small but verdant meadow hedged in by granite and forest
Looking Northwest
Verdant meadow with tinkling stream we see looking back over our Right Shoulder shortly after passing South of the Upper Cinko Lake trail junction. This is the upper segment of the stream shown in the previous photo above.
Map Note
The USGS 7.5 map shows the black ponds below, but not the little creek we can see above running around the perimeter of this cute little meadow.
The USGS 30 minute map shows the creek but not the black (vernal) ponds.
The USGS 7.5 minute map shows the ponds but not the creek.
During this slice of time, during the last decade of the last century and the first decade of this Century I have observed both ponds and a creek.
We are safe visualizing both the creek from the one map and the ponds from the other to visualize the features along the PCT South of the Cinko Lake junction.
Shaded PCT on a soft trail surface along the interface between forest and meadow South of the Upper Cinko Lake trail junction.
This very nice flat gap in the descending ridgeline allows us easy passage between the Upper Cinko Lake trail junction and the Cascade Creek/West West Walker trail junction.
Color, Light, and Darkness
Verdant glowing green apron of meadow colors the perimeter of the first and lowest of the two significant black ponds South of the upper Cinko Lake trail junction. Black Ponds are potential meadows. The image above is the North shore of the North pond.
Runoff brings sand and soil to fill these ponds, grasses grow in to root the runoff soils, and a meadow begins emerging, tightening and closing its grip around the diminishing pond. The surrounding lodgepoles are not far behind the grasses. The lodgepoles begin marching in on the heels of the grasses, creating their own slowly tightening circle of timber wrapping around and infiltrating the apron of grasses as they slowly strangle out the black ponds.
Such is the succession of life.
Life eats itself to survive both individually and as part of large groups actions,
such as this succession from shoreline ecosystem to meadow to forest demonstrates.
Lower, or the North Black Pond on PCT below the Cascade Creek trail junction.
The line of our trail above is running us on a line out of the Northwest to the Southeast through a low gap in the granite terrain descending the East Flank of the Sierra.
View South from Between Ponds
The Upper, or Southern, smaller black pond between Cascade Creek and Cinko Lake trail junctions.
Our trail runs through the narrow, cool, and very pretty forested glade filling the flat spot/slot running us from the Upper Cinko Lake trail junction to the Cascade Creek/West West Walker trail junction.
It opens up just wide enough to hold two large black ponds lined up along its brief length.
The whole length of the distance hiking through this channel in the terrain holding these two ponds is less than half the total .72 of a mile distance between the Cinko and Cascade junctions.
Note the flat with two ponds between the East Cinko Lake and Cascade Creek trail junctions on this map:
North end of the upper, or Southern, black pond in its glade.
Little "special zones" like this are strung-out along the course of our route like pearls on a line.
These are places where the unique configurations of the terrain have conspired to focus the forces Nature into concentrations of life. These places bind the available weather, water, matter (in the form of runoff soils), and Sunlight (the "aspect" of the place) together into living real time expressions, manifestations of local and grand spirits of the inherent consciousness.
New Signs were Posted at the trail junction down Cascade Creek to the West Walker River as seen in 2012
This West Walker River junction on the Pacific Crest Trail is the quickest way for Northbound PCT hikers to bail out to hike around, to bypass Leavitt and Sonora Peaks, if the snow conditions on these two mighty peaks are impassable or impossible for you..
This reroute happens to early PCT hikers who are not snow tested almost every year.
OLD
These old Trail junction signs have been removed but they correctly point back to the way it was.
West Walker trail junction as seen in 2009. I prefer these old rustic trail signs to the new.
I have no idea why they replaced them.
I always prefer rebuilding to replacing.
Spotted Movement in the chaos of the forest and rock. I had a handy tree for cover and used it, but to no avail. This old girl had seen me first, and decided to move away, even though her motion and sound would give away her position.
Looking closely I saw an old doe walking away. She had seen me and decided to split, which made me aware of her position despite her slow, quiet retreat, but not for long. She was out of there.
The doe's ear is on me even though her eyes are not. I'm fooling no one hiding behind this stupid tree...
A nifty little "pocket" falls, almost inset into the terrain rather than flowing over it.
Here the water flows over and between a granite feature that its ancestral ice long ago carved through the granite.
Cascade Creek
Detail of the little waterfall.
The pocket of rock holding the flow also captures and shelters the cool air flowing along with the cold stream.
This creates an air-conditioned zone of chill along this warm section of trail made warmer by our efforts climbing towards Dorothy Lake Pass.
The enchanting sounds of the tinkling waterfall and the inviting cool of its accompanying breeze relieves our physical overheating while delighting our senses.
Cascade Creek flowing Northeast towards its drop into the canyon of the West Walker River. Since turning South coming out of the gap holding the Black Ponds we've hiked along a short fairly flat section of Cascade Creek. The image above is our view coming to the end of this shelf.
We have a short 200 foot elevation moderate+ climb over the next quarter-mile to Lake Harriet.
Our best maps showing our overall position in relation to all of our surrounding hiking options is the bottom-Right half of our Sonora Pass Region Maps, their Southeastern corners:
Both of these maps above show our proxmity to the upper reaches of the West Walker River.
This is important because the upper reaches of the West Walker is a backdoor leading us into and linking the North Yosemite Backcountry to Leavitt Meadow Trailhead. We can see a trail linking our position here on the PCT along Cascade Creek to the PCT running through Kerrick Canyon in the Heart of the North Yosemite Backcountry.
That link opens up the whole of the Northernmost Yosemite Backcountry to our examination through long-distance backpacking loops.
Clicking either of the maps above along their PCT routes near Cascade Creek brings us to the more detailed map of this area. Right now we are especially interested in the potential of the trail through the upper sections and top of the West Walker River's Canyon leading up to the top of Kerrick Canyon. The detailed map shows us the back-back way into Yosemite:
(Twin Lakes would be the "back" way into Yosemite.
Leavitte Meadow to Kerrick Canyon via the West Walker is the
"Back-Back" way into Yosemite.
These trails can be stitched together to create remarkable loops around the North Yosemite Backcountry and the thumb of the Toiyabe National Forest capping it:
The Other Bensen Lake Loop
The Standard route of the Bensen Lake Loop begins and ends at Twin Lakes in the Hoover Wilderness. This map lays out its route circling around the Heart of the North Yosemite Backcountry:
The line of the Bensen Lake Loop follows Kerrick Canyon from the Top of the Sierra Crest above Twin Lakes down to the PCT running along the Western flank, then turns South along the PCT to follow it to Matterhorn Canyon, where it departs the PCT to return to Twin Lakes.
Our alternative Bensen Lake Loop also drops down Kerrick Canyon to the PCT. But rather than starting out of Twin Lakes, our Bensen Loop started out of Leavitt Meadow.
Rather than turning South with the PCT, our Bensen Lake Loop turns North on the PCT on its way back towards Leavitt Meadow.
That means our alternative route is not really a "Bensen Lake" loop, as we turn North just a bit North of Bensen Lake. Our "Alternative-Bensen Lake Loop" route is technically a mirror-image of the Bensen Lake Loop, just run to the West of the Bensen Lake Loop.
That would make our loop the
"North Yosemite Backcountry Loop?"
Regardless, shifting or stepping our loop out of the framwork of the more popular Bensen Lake Loop offers a challenging backpacking trip through less-explored areas of Yosemite.
The "North Yosemite Loop" is fantastic to run "counter-clockwise," running South down the PCT from Leavitt Meadow, then returning by hiking down the West Walker River to Leavitt Meadow Trailhead.
My reasoning for counter-clockwise is the sandy trail conditions along the West Walker River. I would much rather descend than climb both the sandy trails down the West Walker and Jack Main Canyon than climb them.
Climbing out of the forests South to Harriet Lake we finally can turn around to get long views North at the West Walker River drainage along the Eastern flank of the Sierra Nevada, to the Left.
The Pacific Crest Trail turns Left, West, at the base of the great volcanic ridgeline in the far distance. That ridgeline runs West up to the Sierra crestline composes the Northern wall of Kennedy Canyon running up to Leavitt Peak, eventually.
Southbound hikers turn West up Kennedy Canyon, Northbound hikers descended Kennedy Canyon to turn South on our way to here at our current position.
Also note that the ridgeline descending in the middle distant Left side of the image is composed of granite, while the distant wall of Kennedy Canyon is volcanic.
Lake Harriet. The Pacific Crest Trail touches the Northwest corner of the Lake. A short distance South of this point is a nice shaded breakspot along the Western shore of Lake Harriet. It's a break spot because it's been over-camped. Camping is still allowed there, but I expect it to be restricted sometime in the future, or it will heal up on its own.
The view above is looking Southeast.
We are approaching the treeline. Forests have thinned and the lodgepole have given way to whitebarks.
Another image from Lake Harriet's Southwestern corner. This view is little bit East of South at the Sierra Crest. Tower Peak is peeking through saddle.
Very Nice break spot for through hikers on the West Side of Harriet
Break spot on West side of Lake Harriet.
Campsites circle Lake Harriet. As a small lake Harriet offers less elbow room than Stella Lake. Stella Lake is not a big lake, but the way it's laid out gives it a huge circumference offering backpackers much more space to stretch out.
Looking Southeast at the tips of Tower Peak in the furthest distance. We can see more of Tower Peak through the gap from this elevation, but this view will be lost as we climb South.
Just about to turn away from Lake Harriet
Tent on the East shore of Lake Harriet. Though I've never camped at Lake Harriet I've often seen people camping around the backside, the East side of Harriet Lake.
Though there is an over-improved site on the West Shore of Lake Harriet, I consider this site a break spot rather than a campsite. That's because this site is wedged in-between the shore of the lake and the route of the Pacific Crest Trail.
As a campsite it's too close to the lake for my tastes, not much privacy from the trail, though it may be barely legal as a campsite.
Plus, it's been overused. It needs to rest and heal.
We can see the ridgeline above the East side of the West Walker Watershed running out to the North. In the furthest distance we can make out Peak 10230 above the Southeast corner of Leavitt Meadow.
We'll get better views North as we climb above the forest and terrain obscuring our views.
The gap in the distant ridge is partially obscured by the intervening granite ridgetop on the Left of the image, though we can clearly see Peak 11280 along the Right side of the volcanic ridge in the distance.
Peak 10230
Way down by Leavitt Meadow
Looking Northeast at Peak 10230 as we climb South out of the basin holding Lake Harriet.
Peak 10230 is located on the North end of the red volcanic ridge to our East, the one with the gap and the Hoover Wilderness boundary running along its crestline. But the boundary line turns East before it gets down to Peak 10230, putting Peak 10230 just beyond the Northern limit of the Hoover Wilderness to our East.
Poole Lake is located just to the Northwest, the Left, of the base of Peak 10230. Peak 10230 and the end of this ridge tower over the Southeast corner of Leavitt Meadow.
Poole Lake sits above the Southeast corner of Leavitt Meadow, and Peak 10230 rises to the Southeast of Poole Lake.
Shattered anything is hard to cross without a trail.
Climbing past Lake Harriet's 9230 feet of elevation we are ascending a total of 275 feet out of the thin forest surrounding Lake Harriet across exposed reflective granite to Stella Lake's 9505 feet of elevation.
Coming to the end of the climb up from Lake Harriet we find an expansive flat on the East side of the Sierra Crestline below Dorothy Lake Pass holding Stella Lake.
Thin neck between North and South segments of Stella Lake.
In the background we can see the very Western end of the main ridge arm descending off of Forsyth Peak to the Southeast of Dorothy Lake, which we will bend around hiking down the top of Jack Main Canyon.
Stella Lake and the Gap in the Volcanic Ridge to our Northeast
View Northeast across length of Stella Lake highlighting its Northeastern and Southwestern bodies of water.
The West Walker River flows through the valley on the far side of near granite ridgline and the near side of the red volcanic ridgeline with the arc across its crest. The Eastern section of Stella Lake is out of view to the Right in this image.
Stella Lake and the Gap in the Ridge from Dorothy Lake Pass
Stella Lake from Dorothy Lake Pass.
Dorothy Lake Pass
Dorothy Lake Pass. We now encounter the steel trail signs of Yosemite National Park. Locations and mileage are cut through the steel plate with a cutting torch.
Our first encounter with the heavy metal signs carved by cutting torches that define Yosemite trail signage. These signs became the established standard for Yosemite in the early 1950s as a solution for bears removing conventional trail signage.
Mileages and routes etched in steel cannot reflect the changing routes and miles on the ground.
Trail route changes over the years and decades makes the mileages on the steel Yosemite signs good estimates, but they do not necessarily reflect the exact distances today.
This is generally true with all mileages posted on trail signs.
Check out this discussion about miles at the South Bond Pass trail junction to our South at the top of Jack Main Canyon.
View Northeast
Gap in the Volcanic Ridgeline Marking Hoover Wilderness
Looking Northeast through Dorothy Lake Pass from just steps South of the Pass.
Hoover Wilderness
The boundary of Hoover Wilderness runs along that volcanic crestline, with the West Walker River running up under the Sierra Crestline in the Toiyabe National Forest between our position in Yosemite and the Hoover Wilderness beyond the far crestline.
View North across Dorothy Lake and through Dorothy Lake Pass
Getting around to the South Shore Dorothy Lake and looking North across the lake lines up Dorothy Lake, Dorothy Lake Pass, and almost lines up that distinctive cut on the distant volcanic ridge in Hoover Wilderness that we've been using as one of our local landmarks.
Now we'll turn around to continue South down Jack Main Canyon leaving the East Flank and its preponderance of volcanic terrain behind entering Yosemite.
Walking through Nature during changing colors and climates of different seasons makes me think that the seasonal changes in the colors of nature are the ultimate source of "style."
A small part of human styles are still pragmatic changes in clothing styles that reflect the changing needs of the changing seasons. But most human styles are ornamental changes in color and pattern that are dull reflections of Nature's mastery of color, pattern, texture and form.
Nature is the master palette serving up color and style.
Sweet colors squeezed out by Fall's dropping temperatures.
Fall colors light up the trail before entering the forests of Jack Main Canyon. the plants were all dried out and crunchy if you stepped on them.
Signs of Heavy Trail Use begin in Yosemite
Trail approaching Jack Main Canyon.
We get the double-trail shortly after entering Yosemite.
I'd say the heavy use up here is a product of the heavy annual PCT hiker use. Hikers on the PCT are likely the largest part of the number of hikers who cross Dorothy Lake Pass.
They would also account for the majority of the hiker traffic on the trails between Tuolumne Meadows and Sonora Pass.
That fact tells us that these trails become very very quiet late in Summer into Fall, as the bulk of Pacific Crest Trail hikers have long passed, when even the number of section hikers reduces dramatically.
North Yosemite gets quite in late Summer into Fall.
Nondescript unmarked trail junction NW to Bond Pass
The North Bond Pass trail junction. This is the first of the two junctions along the Pacific Crest Trail breaking off to the Southbound hikers Right, Northwest up into the Emigrant Wilderness in the Stanislaus National Forest crossing Bond Pass.
This view is looking Southbound down the now combined Pacific Crest-Tahoe to Yosemite Trail routes running together down Jack Main Canyon.
Dorothy Lake is to our back while the unmarked trail blocked off with the row of rocks to our Right is the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route North heading Northwest up to Bond Pass.
This trail junction is not posted with trail sign as is the Southern end of this"Y" trail junction coming down from Bond Pass.
A short distance Southbound along the Pacific Crest Trail down Jack Main Canyon past the unmarked Bond Pass trail junction we reach the Second, Southern Trail Junction up to Bond Pass. This junction is well-posted.
South
Bond Pass Trail Junction:
Trail Signs
Bond Pass and the Tahoe to Yosemite Route Northwest across Emigrant Wilderness
Northwest to Bond Pass on the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail
Backpackers planning on hiking the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail through Bond Pass join up or split off from the PCT right here in Jack Main Canyon depending on if you are hiking North or South.
Northbound hikers on the TYT depart the PCT at the top of Jack Main Canyon here while the Southbound TYT hiker's route finally rejoins with the Pacific Crest Trail. The last time we saw the Pacific Crest Trail was departing the Southern end of the Lake Tahoe Basin.
We can use this junction to turn medium and long distance local backpacking loops back around to the North towards any of our Highway 108 trailheads by threading the Dorothy Lake and Bond Passes.
Hiking North over Bond Pass allows us to craft a variety of routes North back to Leavitt Meadow Trailhead, Sonora Pass Trailhead, and Kennedy Meadows Pack Station Trailhead. The Sonora Pass region hiking map and trail schematic below shows all these trailheads and the three main routes South from the Highway 108 corridor to Bond Pass.
These are the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail on the West flank of the Sierra, the Tungsten Road over Big Sam to Bond Pass, and the Pacific Crest Trail along the East flank.
South on the combined TYT and PCT down Jack Main Canyon to Tilden and Wilmer Lakes, respectively. One can also hike past these junctions down to Hetch Hetchy.
Tuolumne Meadows along the PCT (Around Wilmer Lake)
54.49 miles
Tuolumne Meadows along the TYT (Around Tilden Lake)
56.3 miles
The Jack Main Canyon Below the TYT and PCT
The Tahoe to Yosemite Trail turns East out of Jack Main Canyon at Tilden Creek, the Pacific Crest Trail turns East around Wilmer Lake.
Backpacking trips ending by crossing Hetch Hetchy Dam at the bottom of Jack Main Canyon are delightful, independent of which particular route you use to enter the top of Jack Main Canyon.
I have it at 29.4 miles from Dorothy Lake Pass to the Road on the far side of Hetch Hetchy Dam. Added to the 15.43 miles from the Leavitt Meadow Trailhead to Dorothy Lake Pass means we can cross the Sierra from East to West, from Leavitt Meadow to Hetch Hetchy over 44.83 miles.
Leavitt Meadow Trailhead to Hetch Hetchy: 44.83 miles
One of our two routes into the Northwestern-most corner of the North Yosemite Backcountry. Both routes have joined at the Southern Bond Pass Trail Junction that ended this page.
H
THIS PAGE IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION: STAY TUNED FOR MUCH MORE!
Have a great Emigrant Wilderness backpacking loop or story to relate? A great cross-country scramble over its unique granite? A fine piece of gear? Or gear that failed?
If you have experiences, comments, questions, or pictures and videos of the Pacific Crest Trail between Sonora Pass and Tuolumne Meadows, share 'em here.
Weave your threads of experience into the fabric of the guide.
The Tahoe to Whitney Trail Guide and Forum have been built, funded, and supported by my individual efforts, with a little help from my friends and family.
If you feel these efforts are valuable to you, you are invited to support them here: