Highland Lakes from Tyron Peak on the Pacific Crest Trail Lake Tahoe to Mount Whitney: Your Backpacking Guide to the High Sierras Ebbetts Pass in the afternoon
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Backpacking
Clarks Fork Lower Ford through Saint Marys Pass to
Highway 108

Hiking
The Tahoe to Yosemite Trail from Lake Alpine to Saint Marys Pass Trailhead

 

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Related Information
Trail Guide Index

Highway
4
to
Highway 108
North TYT
to
Boulder Creek

South
TYT


Sonora Pass Trail Options

TYT
Topo Map

Clarks Fork Headwaters-
Saint Marys Pass
TH
30 min
TYT Map

Lake Alpine
to
Saint Marys
Pass
TYT
Lake Alpine
to
Saint Marys
Pass


MILES
AND
ELEVATIONS
ALL TYT
TOPO
MAPS


Lake Alpine
to
Saint Marys
Pass
Resupply
North


Lake Alpine

Resupply
South

Kennedy
Meadows Pack Station
National Forest

Stanislaus
Weather all maps index
East
to PCT

Boulder Lake
TYT-PCT
Map
REGION MAP

Sonora Pass
Region Map

Through
The Clarks Fork Headwaters Bowl
to the
Saint Marys Pass Trailhead

A Difficult Segment of Unmaintained and Untrailed Route Finding

The trail South through the lower ford of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River marks the end of even having an unmaintained trail leading us up to the North edge of Clarks Meadow. We do find elements of a "Use Trail" and good "Wild Ducks" leading us through the brief flat following the ford that proceeds the beginning of our steep, Hard 1 difficulty climb up to the North edge of Clarks Meadow.

We will find another ford, the middle ford of the Clarks Fork when we climb up to the flat on the North edge of Clarks Meadow, followed by two sets of premium campsites, one just across from the ford, and the other about a hundred yards South and a few dozen feet higher in elevation.

The next segment of our route South stretches from the middle ford of the Clarks Fork at the North end of Clarks Meadow to the final, uppermost ford above the last bit of Clarks Meadow in the upper section of the Headwaters Bowl. This segment is started through the upper reaches of the forests fringing the North edge of Clarks Meadow, as far above the meadow as practicably possible, then climbing up to the next succesive level of Clarks Meadow through boulder strewn ascents. Watching well and picking the proper route should keep us on line with bits of Use Trail and an irregular series of Wild Ducks.

Reaching, finding, then crossing the upper ford we find more Wild Ducks leading us upstream, around the Left side of a great granite block on a path wedged between rock and forest along, really a bit above the South shore of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.
Climbing Southbound along/above the South shore of this now creek-sized river, we come to a great "flat" waterfall. By "flat" waterfall, I mean a steep drop off the rounded ledge, and not-quite-vertical-subsequent "fall" off a great granite block who's lip is so rounded that the river does not fly off it, but spreads out so that its "fall" is more of a flow over and around the lip to slide down the rock, rather than flying off it. We climb up from the base of this great flat waterfall up to its top, composed of a great deck of flat granite, with a channel cut through the center for the flow of the Clarks Fork, before it spreads out as the river reaches and slides off the rock's edge. It's a pretty cool feature.

Again, we cut to the Right of the waterfall to again follow bits of Use Trail and a scattering of Wild Ducks upriver along/above the South shore of the Clarks Fork up a couple hundred more tough yards, up to the tributairy flowing North, down from our Right, having flown down into the headwaters bowl through a slot in the surrounding cliff face. Here we turn South to follow this tributairy up to the slot it flowed through down the cliff face. Here we begin our climb out of the Headwaters Bowl of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River up through this slot.

Reaching the bottom of the slot we find a challenging steep climb up the bottom part of the slot requiring some use of hands, up to where we cross a great sand berm and the angle of the route moderates into a normal difficult climbing trail. At the top of the slot we are just a bit Southwest of Saint Marys Pass, which we will walk across on our way over to the maintained trail running from Highway 108 to Stanislaus Peak out of the Saint Marys Pass Trailhead.

We find a 1.14 mile well-maintained trail leading South down to the Saint Marys Pass Trailhead on Highway 108, which is just nine miles East of our next rest and resupply stop at the fantastic rest and resupply services offered up by Kennedy Meadows Pack Station.

We are going to need it after the challenges and difficulties of this segment of trail!

Check out the Carson Iceberg Wilderness map to get an idea of the location of the upper reaches of the Clarks Fork and its Headwaters Bowl in context of the surrounding PCT and local trails we can use for potential local backpacking trips, and alternative routes for our long-distance backpacking trips.

Check out the Sonora Pass Region Map for an even broader perspective on the relationship between the PCT and TYT both North and South of Highway 108, and our options for tying bits of each together into unique routes for our long distance trips or shorter local backpacking loops.

Remember, click the Black Dots on the 30 minute maps for more detailed maps, and the Red Dots on all the maps for the associated trail guide information.

Here's an example of one local backpacking loop pivoting from Southbound on the TYT to North on the PCT by turning up Boulder Creek:

Articles
Big Carson-Iceberg Wilderness Backpacking Loop

All Carson Iceberg Backpacking Articles

Post up about your hikes in the Carson Iceberg Wilderness:

Forum
Carson Iceberg Wilderness Backpacking Forum

Vital Information and Statistics
Central Carson Iceberg Wilderness
15 minute backpacking map
Southern Carson Iceberg Wilderness
15 minute topo hiking map

Carson Iceberg Wilderness
30 minute USGS topo map
Lake Alpine to Saint Marys Pass
Backpacking Miles and Elevations

The Lower Ford of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River
is
30.00 miles South of Highway 4 at Lake Alpine on the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail, hiking across most of the
length of the Carson Iceberg Wilderness.

The Lower Ford of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River
is
4.57 miles North of the Saint Marys Pass TYT Trailhead on Highway 108.

Backpacker
Resources
and Hiker Information

INDEX
Resources on this page

Overview
Miles and Transportation
Below

Hiking Options
Around the Hard Part

 

Character of this Section of Trail

 

 

Weather
and
Road
Information

Point Weather Forecasts

NWS
Point Forecast
Sonora Pass Forecast

NWS
Point
Forecast
Ebbetts Pass Point Forecast

NWS
Point Forecast
Tuolumne Meadows

Regional
Forecast

NWS
Regional Forecast
West Slope Sierra Tahoe to Yosemite

NWS
Regional Forecast
East-Central Sierra Sonora Pass to Bishop

All
Sonora Pass
Regional Weather Information
All
High Sierra Weather
Resources
Real Time Ground Reporting Stations

Stanislaus Meadow

Ebbetts Pass

Deadman Creek

Sonora Pass Bridge

All Ground Reporting Stations

MesoWest N Calif Stations

Calif Snotel

Road Conditions

Caltrans Hwy 4        Caltrans Hwy 108

Big View
Radar

North Sierra
Radar

Big View
Space

Western US
Satellite

All Weather and Fire Information

All High Sierra Weather Resources

Comprehensive High Sierra Fire and Smoke Information

Section IV
,66 mile route
Video
Lowest Ford
to
Clarks Fork Meadow
unmaintained route

 

Section V
.59 mile route
Video

Clarks Fork Meadow route
to
Bottom of Headwaters Bowl
No Trail

 

Section VI
.97 mile route
Video
Cross-country route
out of
Headwaters Bowl of Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River

 

Section VII
1.21 miles route
Video
Cross country route between headwaters bowl of the Clarks Fork
to
Saint Marys Pass Trail

 

Section VIII
1.14 miles
Video
Saint Marys Pass Trailhead and Trail
maintained trail

> Forum <

All backpackers can post text comments about this challenging segment of trail from the Boulder Lake trail junction through Saint Marys Pass via the comments links all over this guide page.

Agree, disagree, modify, append, correct, or update the trail descriptions.

These links are for your comments, questions, updates and hiking reports, for you to add your perspective and experiences on these trails. We're all different and experience things differently. Share your experiences. It informs others who are like you, and those who are different. Contrast is informative.

Registered Members can post up stand alone posts about this section of the trail with images, maps and videos in the Trails Forum for this Lake Alpine to Saint Marys Pass section of the Trail Guide.

Unmaintained TYT Trail Reports

Add information through the comments links and read this supplemental information through the forum links.

Check out the Tahoe to Whitney .org Backpacking Trails and Topics forums

comments-questions-add information

The Tahoe to Yosemite Trail through the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness.

 

Information

TYT MAP       CARSON-ICEBERG MAP        BOULDER LAKE TO PCT MAP

MILES AND ELEVATIONS       FORUM

Clarks Fork Lower Ford
8370 feet

North
to
Clarks Fork Road
6.68 miles

Clarks Fork Road
6400 feet

-1970 feet

South
to
Boulder Lake Junction
on the
TYT
and
East

to
Pacific Crest Trail
via
Boulder Lake:
6.68 miles
to
8650 feet at PCT

-1410 feet
+1690 feet

South
to
Saint Marys Pass Trailhead
4.57 miles

Saint Marys Pass
10,400 feet

Trailhead
9440 feet

+3440 feet
-960 feet


Road Map
Highway 108 Trailheads

The above are our Trail Options from Boulder Creek

comments Forum

We Have Many route Options
from
Clarks Fork Lower Ford

Backpacking Trail Guide
page

North
on the
TYT

Lower Ford
to
Boulder Lake junction

 

East
to the
PCT

Boulder Lake Trail

 

Backpacking Trail Guide
page

South
on the
TYT

Sonora-Saint Marys Pass Trailheads

TYT Hiker
Options

The Tahoe to Yosemite Trail hiker has a range of significant hiking alternatives other than hiking this last very difficult unmaintained segment of the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail along the the upper reaches of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus to Saint Marys Pass, which is depicted below.

Most skilled and observant hikers will find this difficult section quite refreshing, and be drawn by exactly the same qualities that warn others off.
The key is to understand if this segment of trail is within your capabilities. It's not highly used. I found no footprints above a very low point of this section. No matter how many can do it, few do.

In any case, you don't have to hike this difficult section of unmaintained trail.

Southbound Tahoe to Yosemite Trail hikers enter the valley of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River where we hike over Jenkins Canyon into Arnot Creek and through its trailhead onto the Clarks Fork Road.
We encounter our first hiking alternative at Jenkins Canyon. We could have hiked up to the PCT via Highland Lakes to Wolf Creek Pass.

Carson Iceberg Backpacking Options off the TYT
Do It!

Our First Option was to break off the TYT back at the Jenkins Canyon trail junction to hike up to the PCT via Highland Creek and Lakes.

Our second option was to hike up Arnot Creek to the PCT where we dropped down to Arnot Creek through Woods Gulch.

Our next option off the TYT to the PCT will be through the Disaster Creek Trailhead at the end of the paved Clarks Fork Road.

This Boulder Lake trail junction is our last trail up to the PCT from the TYT.

I consider the "standard" route of the TYT only one of many alternative routes we can hike across or around the Carson Iceberg Wilderness. I say hike them all.

Trail Recommendation
I strongly suggest that only the strongest most experienced hikers who are capable of basic navigation and reasonably skilled at route-finding undertake the standard TYT route through the Clarks Fork over Saint Marys Pass. It's a rough go both physically and in terms of route-finding, so make sure you're up for the task.

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Second Option
Skip It

Our Second Option is to go around this whole section of trail when we first enter the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River. Rather than turning Left, South up the Clarks Fork Road to hike this difficult section of the TYT we turn Right to begin hitching towards Highway 108 with the goal of resuming our Southbound hike on the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail through Kennedy Meadows Pack Station. This option completely skips the Clarks Fork section.

We hit it and split it...

Options
PCT Hike-Arounds

Our PCT hike-around option are many, and all involve hiking various routes up to the Pacific Crest Trail around the Clarks Fork section of the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail. The trails and terrain of the Carson Iceberg Wilderness presents us with a lot of option to do this.
I noted our route options on previous trail guide pages North of our current position here at Boulder Creek. We can transition from the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail to the Pacific Crest Trail via Highland Creek above Spicer Meadow Reservoir as well as through the Arnot Creek, Disaster Creek and the Boulder Creek trail junctions along the Clarks Fork Road.
These previous trail options to our North as well as the Boulder Creek trail here hike us up to the Pacific Crest Trail where we hike various lengths of the PCT South to Sonora Pass, or we can bend loops back to our starting trailhead.

The Pacific Crest Trail intersects with Highway 108 through Sonora Pass a mile East of where the Southbound Tahoe to Yosemite hikes through Saint Marys Pass Trailhead onto Highway 108.
Though we have many route options for just how we hike South on the PCT and TYT, they all end up bringing us down to Highway 108 in close proximity to each other.

Let's Do This Thing
Below on this guide page we explore our first option, hiking the classic Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route through the Upper reaches of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River over Saint Marys Pass to Highway 108.

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The Lower Ford

Our arrival at the lowest ford of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River is marked by easy to see ducks on the South bank of the river. Note that the power of the Spring thaw may remove existing ducks.

Duck on the South side of the lowest ford of the Clarks Fork.

Duck on the South shore of the lowest ford of the three fords across the unmaintained segment of the TYT through the upper Clarks Fork.

Southern Carson Iceberg Wilderness
15 minute topo hiking map
Lake Alpine to Saint Marys Pass
Backpacking Miles and Elevations

comments Forum

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Segment IV

Lowest Ford to the Northwest Edge of Clarks Fork Meadow

Images and Guide
Lowest Ford South up to the Northern Edge of Clarks Fork Meadow

Film
Clarks Fork Meadow North down to the Lowest Ford

route distance
.66 of a mile of poor route-finding conditions with some wild ducks

8370 to 8800 feet
+430 feet

video duration
13:21

Southern Carson Iceberg Wilderness
15 minute topo hiking map
Lake Alpine to Saint Marys Pass
Backpacking Miles and Elevations


Unmaintained TYT Trail Reports

comments Forum

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Duck at Clarks Fork Ford

Duck marking the South side of the lowest ford of the Clarks fork of the Stanislaus River.

Duck on the South side of the lowest ford.

South of here the trail melts into little more than a route through the terrain. North of here the trail expands, its various pieces connect up with increasing regularity, and we can begin to Dream of soon seeing maintained trails.

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Last-First Blaze

A few hundred yards South of the lower ford hiking through dense forest we encounter a dried out trench of a Spring flowing tributary surrounded by blazed trees.

I note this location as the last blaze (or blazes) Southbound hikers will encounter along this section of trail, or the first that Northbound hikers will encounter.

South of this point the trail fades significantly, disappears more than it appears, and begin approaching the bottom of the very stiff climb up a jumbled mountainside leading up to the North edge of Clarks Fork Meadow.

Difficulty increases dramatically South of this position.
But it's a short pull up to the North edge of Clarks Fork Meadow, where we're going to stay at the deluxe site there.

North of here the trail widens, deepens, and we experience decreasing obstacles. South of here it disappears.

First blaze below Clarks Meadow.

Is this our First blaze below Clarks Meadow?

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Unmaintained TYT Trail Reports

 

Detail of first-or last blaze, depending on your direction.

Yes! Detail of our first-or last blaze, depending on our direction.

First blaze below Clarks Meadow. The trail gets considerably easier and real unmaintained trails begin North of here while the trail deteriorates South of this point into a route.

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Gateway Ducks

These two duck sit at the bottom of the steep climb up to the edge of Clarks Fork Meadow. Note how the ducks were placed on two boulders that the trail route threads through. Thus the term "gateway" ducks...

I like that. A fitting marker for the difficulty of the upcoming route South.

Though I made the gateway ducks marking the East Carson River Trail along the Pacific Crest Trail I did not construct this gateway, but I totally approve! It is really hard for even the dullest hiker to miss gateway ducks...

From this point South the trail route becomes dependant upon our route-finding skills. If we have skills of observation, analysis, and good decision-making skills we will maintain the old route and occasionally encounter the relief of hiking on trail bed.

If we do not have route finding skills we will wander off the proper route which will make us work considerably harder and lengthen the time it will take to make our way up to Clarks Fork Meadow.

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Ducks at the base of the steep climb up to Clarks Fork Meadow.

Ducks at the base of the steep climb up to Clarks Fork Meadow. Here the steep climb South up to Clarks Fork Meadow begins in earnest.

Southern Carson Iceberg Wilderness
15 minute topo hiking map
Lake Alpine to Saint Marys Pass
Backpacking Miles and Elevations

Unmaintained TYT Trail Reports

comments Forum

Space Ducks-Rough Terrain-Shards of unmaintained trail route

I did not take a lot of pictures of this section as I was fully employed by the tasks of working like a dog, constantly scanning and studying the terrain to find a duck or point of terrain logic that would guide me to my next position, or working my way through on my best guess about the progression of the route through the terrain to my next position of observation and analysis.

I took the image below after locating this duck as I pondered my next move. Then I put the frkn camera away and made it.

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Duck below Clarks Meadow.

Look! A duck! Let's go that way!

Duck below Clarks Meadow.

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Scenes at the end of Clarks Fork Meadow

We cannot mistake our arriving or departing the North edge of the Clarks Fork Meadow. Here the trail transitions radically through this narrow pinching of the neck of the canyon that marks the Northwest limit of Clarks Fork Meadow.

Climbing Southbound up out of our struggle up the short section of steep rocky mountainside below the meadow presents us with an inviting scene: a beautiful green meadow flat sits behind a beautiful rock channel containing a mini-waterfall flowing into a beautiful mini-pool which flows through a mini-granite "pocket" gorge, all surrounded by inviting shady forests of lodgepole pine.

A fine ancient campsite sits under the edge of the forest to our Left, across the ford. I'll bet the Natives kicked it here for a thousand years of Summers, then the Westerners afterward, and now us.

The scene in the mini-gorge at our feet is reminiscent of the granite formations at Carson Falls along the East Carson River, but in a miniaturized form. It is kind of like a scale-model, except that it is real.

The Middle Ford

This North edge of the Clarks Fork Meadow also locates the middle ford of our journey up the Clarks Fork. A few steps above the mini-fall a series of granite rock stepping-stones makes this an easy ford during low water flows.

Though the lower ford's location does not set off mental alarms, this middle ford does. The lower ford is in a location that would allow the river to widen rather than deepen during high water flows while this middle ford sparks my unease: This ford would be downright dangerous during high water flows.

Its narrow granite channel would deepen dangerously and focus this deeper flow into a powerful current that could easily sweep backpackers over the mini-waterfall below, which would be generating terrifying power during high water flows of the Spring Thaw. Not a pretty picture.

This middle ford at the North end of the Clarks Fork Meadow should be a serious consideration and concern for hikers planning a trip through here during times of potential high water flows. Possibly hikers could ford further to the South where the river's flow could potentially spread out across the meadow sufficiently to lessen fording dangers. Maybe not.

Remember, of all the things that can kill you in the Sierra Nevada fording and lightening are the most successful at dealing death to backpackers. Don't make stupid decisions. Always carry sufficient food and preserve sufficient energy to turn around and/or reroute when facing obstacles of death.

Overall Impression
North and South
To our North the Clarks Fork Meadow terminates abruptly, overlooking a grand view of the steep canyon walls wrapping around the chaotic scene of a great jumble of massive granite boulders tumbling in slow motion down the throat of the canyon.

We veer Left of the North edge of the meadow to find the route down the mountain if we are hiking North.

To the South behind the granite waterfall we see the inviting green of the almost-flatness of Clarks Fork Meadow bending away to our Left, Southeast, moving gently upward to eventually put itself under the sheer upper sections of the headwaters bowl we must climb through to make our escape from the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.

We will find segments of this shrinking meadow running Southeast like pearls along the string-line of the narrowing Clarks Fork River. The Clarks Fork Meadow has already been segmented by forest intrusions, squeezed down into a series of small bright green shelves of glowing meadow separated and surrounded by the deep shadows of the encroaching lodgepole forest.

Our best route South pushes up into the forest around the North edge of this series of meadows.

It appears that this meadow was much larger in the past, before expanding tendrils of forest broke it into smaller segments and subsequently began shrinking each segment down within a closing circle of trees. My impression is of a series of small almost-flat meadows descending like a series of green steps, separated by forest, down from the upper canyon under the headwaters bowl.

It appears that they don't run cows up here to graze anymore, which is allowing these meadows to fill in. I'd say the route up has deteriorated enough to keep the grazing stock out.

Each step down to a lower, or up to an higher meadow section is separated and surrounded by dense lodgepole forest making this a hike through alternating sections of dark shadows and vibrant light.

South of the North edge of the Clarks Fork Meadow all trail bed disappears. Note that the trail route as defined on this 1979 USGS topo map ends at the Northwest edge of the Clarks Fork Meadow.

Between this point South to where we jump on the trail coming up from Saint Marys Pass we are on relying on our own route finding skills and a few "wild ducks."

A deep feeling of isolation is imparted by this short segment of our hike by the combined factors of natural quiet, the lack of trails, and resulting lack of people and signs of human.

It's a nice feeling.

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Sweet View
North-Northwest
of
Upper Clarks Fork Canyon below
North Lip
of
Clarks Fork Meadow
Sunset lights up the canyon below Clarks Fork Meadow along the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route.

The approaching sunset's horizontal lighting brightens up the canyon wall below Clarks Fork Meadow along the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route.

Our Southbound route came up here via the steep flank to our Left, out of view of this image.

Southern Carson Iceberg Wilderness
15 minute topo hiking map
Lake Alpine to Saint Marys Pass
Backpacking Miles and Elevations

Unmaintained TYT Trail Reports

comments Forum

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Very Cool Rock Channel

Waterfall at the ford at the end of Clarks Meadow.

Waterfall at the ford at the end of Clarks Meadow.

At the North end of Clarks Fork Meadow the river, now flowing at the volume of a creek way up here, flows through a hard rock channel before tumbling down the canyon below.

This rock channel starts with a nice little waterfall, pools up below, then flows through the bottom of a "mini-gorge" before flowing off the North edge of the meadow.

In the image above we can see the rocks we used as stepping stones where we crossed over from the Northwest to the Southeast side of the Clarks Fork.

We ford where we enter the North edge of the Clarks Fork Meadow.

Below we see the view when we turn around and look off the North edge of the meadow.

Sunset colors deepen view from Clarks Meadow in the Carson Iceberg Wilderness.

Sunset colors deepen view from Clarks Meadow in the Carson Iceberg Wilderness.

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Segment V

Clarks Fork Meadow

Images and Guide
Clarks Fork Meadow South up to Headwaters Bowl Exit Route

Film
Headwaters North down to Clarks Fork Meadow

route distance
.59 of a mile of route finding with some wild ducks

video duration
14:32

Southern Carson Iceberg Wilderness
15 minute topo hiking map
Lake Alpine to Saint Marys Pass
Backpacking Miles and Elevations


Unmaintained TYT Trail Reports

comments Forum

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Clarks Fork Meadow

From the Northwest edge of Clarks Fork Meadow South to our climb out of the headwaters bowl we will be in the section of the USGS map designated as "Clarks Fork Meadow," though we will be hiking through dark forest as well as alongside bright meadow.

I say "alongside bright meadow" as we are going to do our best to put as much distance between our route and the mosquito-filled green meadow. The route South is situated on the North side of the meadow as close to the surrounding canyon wall as practical, to provide the greatest distance from the moisture, mosquitoes, and quagmire nature of the meadow as possible.

Though the map depicts a great open meadow through this section my observations indicate the meadow is much smaller than indicated on the maps and is broken into meadow segments by intervening forest intrusions.

About a half-mile South of the North end of Clarks Fork Meadow brings us to the upper and final ford of the Clarks Fork. Here we will find ducks and a carved tree that indicate the location we cross over to the South bank of the Clarks Fork.

Our exit out of the South end of the Clarks Fork Meadow follows a small creek about 200 yards South of the upper ford that flows into the Clarks Fork down from the South rim of the headwaters bowl.

We'll ford, then proceed cautiously upstream until we find the creek feeding into the Clarks Fork from the South. A little scouting will show us if this is the channel in the surrounding cliffs that we can follow up to the top of the headwaters bowl.

There's an old wild duck at the base of the route up the cliff, but we can't depend on it being there.

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Northwest end of Clarks Fork Meadow.

View North from the Northwest end of Clarks Fork Meadow.

There are lots of nice places to sit in the granite features, drink a hot chocolate, watch the evening shadows lengthen while listening to the melody of the river tumbling through its rocky channel with the breeze blowing through the trees.

The deep peace that ensues after such hard work validates all aspects of the experience.

Southern Carson Iceberg Wilderness
15 minute topo hiking map
Lake Alpine to Saint Marys Pass
Backpacking Miles and Elevations

comments Forum

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View North of the end of Clarks Fork Meadow

Hiking South from the North end of Clarks Meadow we hike over a couple of the ridge arms descending off the North wall of the canyon under Stanislaus Peak.

We get up and out of the meadow. We'll see a faint animal/backpacker route up around the North edge of the meadow.

Below we've turned around to look Northwest back down at the route we've taken hiking South from the North end of the Clarks Fork Meadow. You can see we've climbed around the North edge of the meadow.

The gap in the mountains signifying the end of this section of forest and meadow, the North end of Clarks Fork Meadow, is between the pinching V of the gap we can see across the top of the forest in the middle distant center of the image.

I had chosen a high route around a bend in the meadow and was rewarded with the reassurance of a few "wild ducks" and a good route showing that other hikers had also chosen this route through the terrain.

Keep our eyes open and we will see a rough line of wild ducks bringing us high up to skirt around the North edge of the extent of Clarks Fork Meadow.

Duck over tapering end of the Clarks Fork Meadow.

Duck pointing way North overlooking the tapering end of the Clarks Fork Meadow segment of our route below.

Unmaintained TYT Trail Reports

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Bright Meadow and Dark Forest Shadow
Narrowing segments of meadow with pressing forest along length of meadow segments.

Dropping back down to River/Meadow level North of the upper ford finds us skirting along the edge of the meadow.

Narrowing segments of meadow with pressing forest along length of meadow segments.

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Great Granite Walls rise on both Sides
Granite Canyon surrounding the upper reaches of the Clarks Fork, Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route.

Granite wall on the South flank of the headwaters bowl approaching the very upper reaches of the Clarks Fork, Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route.

Southern Carson Iceberg Wilderness
15 minute topo hiking map
Lake Alpine to Saint Marys Pass
Backpacking Miles and Elevations

Bright Meadow, Dark Forest, and Sheer Rock
Upper Clarks Meadow, Carson Iceberg Wilderness.

Looking Southwest across upper section of Clarks Fork Meadow.

The canyon narrows and steepens above us entering the Clarks Fork headwaters bowl.

We begin to feel a subtle pressure as the canyon narrows under steepening walls, a pressure of competition for space in the increased density of forest, which seems to increase the pressure of forest on the remaining meadow segments.

This quiet, subtle pressure builds as the space disappears between the converging canyon walls, and this pressure leaks into our minds as an increasingly pressing need to understand where we are and find the easiest way out of here is at the forefront of our thoughts.

Our navigation imperatives play out across terrain formed by the changing requirements of plant survival, across a battle between forest and meadow.
We pick our way carefully across this battleground, as it's forcing us to search carefully for our route out as we climb higher up between sheer rock walls that again seem to be growing higher and closing in around us as we move deeper into the headwaters bowl.
The headwaters bowl is bringing us into a narrow space filled tight with darkness and light, dark forest and bright meadows and rising rock walls around, and around all the massive boulders that have broken off the surrounding walls.

Unmaintained TYT Trail Reports

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Old Bear Pie
Bear crap, old.

Bear crap, old. No moisture.

It's light as a feather and crisp as a potato chip.

Light and Shadow
Forest along upper reaches of Clarks Meadow.

The Sierra Nevada Mountains is a study in contrasts. Transition zone between Dark Forest along bright upper reaches of Clarks Meadow.

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The Upper Ford
Blaze at the upper ford.

Blaze at the upper ford. Facing Southeast.

A great boulder alongside the Clarks Fork with a rock on it shows us the location of the ford before we see the carving on the tree above.

Southbound hikers must pass the tree, and turn around, to see the blaze above.

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Great Boulders at the Upper Ford

Duck at the top ford of the Clarks Fork fork of the Stanislaus River.

Duck at the top ford of the Clarks Fork fork of the Stanislaus River.

These great boulder appear to have tumbled off the surrounding cliffs.

 

Segment VI

Headwaters Passage

Images and Guide
South from Upper Clarks Fork Meadow up Southern Headwaters Exit Route to top of Headwaters Bowl

Film
Into the Headwaters of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River down to the River from the South side of the Headwaters Bowl

route distance
.97 of a mile of no trail no ducks

9040 to 10400 feet of elevation
+1360 feet

video duration
12:14

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Butterfly

Likely a Satyr Anglewing, if my identification is correct.

Butterfly upper Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.

Butterfly upper Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.

Butterfly Forum

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The Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River

Flowing as a tranquil creek below the headwaters bowl.

Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.

Creek flowing out of the Headwaters Bowl of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.

We're looking almost directly East up the last bit of the Clarks Fork in its headwaters bowl. Here we find the channel up through the surrounding cliffs off to our Right, to the South.

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The Last or First Wild Duck

At the base of the Southern Passage cutting its steep route South through the rock channel up to the rim of the headwaters bowl we find this big wild duck.

Though leading to no particular trail this duck marks the position of the granite channel above and the beginning of the hike North through Clarks Fork Meadow below.

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Top Duck

Wild Duck
Wild Duck at the base of the rocky channel out of the headwaters bowl. There are no more ducks from this position to the resumption of trail where we join the trail coming up from Saint Marys Pass Trailhead.

This is the top and last duck for Southbound hikers below the rocky channel climbing out of the base of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River to the top of its headwaters bowl.

Northbound hikers will find this duck is the first is a series of wild ducks leading down to the North end of Clarks Fork Meadow.

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Channel into and out of the Clarks Fork Headwaters Bowl

The rocky cliffs are descending to the Right (West) of the channel out of the Headwaters Bowl.

Near the rocky channel up to the top of the headwaters bowl.

Terrain making up the South wall of the headwaters bowl near the rocky channel we will climb up to the top of the headwaters bowl.

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South Wall of the Clarks Fork Headwaters Bowl

Majestic rock lining the South side of the Clarks Fork headwaters bowl.

Majestic rock lining the South side of the Clarks Fork headwaters bowl. This view to the Southeast is from the lower reaches of the rocky channel up to the top.

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View East at the top of the River and the Eastern Extent of the Headwaters Bowl

Climbing between the top and the bottom of the headwaters bowl we get a couple of views East at the womb of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.

The low point in the distance is Saint Marys Pass.

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The headwaters bowl of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.

Rough country along the South flank of the headwaters bowl of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River looking Eastward.

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Inviting Forest at the base of the Rock Channel

Looking down at the base of the Clarks Fork headwaters bowl.

This is a happy sight for Northbound hikers, indicating that our route does indeed bring us down to the Clarks Fork hidden in the forest below.

Upper section of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus from the trail route up to the Headwaters.

Upper section of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus from the hiking route from the bottom to the top of the Headwaters bowl.
Note the descending slope on the other side from Stanislaus Peak indicating the narrowness of the headwaters bowl along the upper reaches of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.

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View Northeast at very upper reaches of Headwaters Bowl

While climbing North-South between the base and top of the headwaters bowl we are able to observe the details of the upper reaches of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus to our East.

We can see that the headwaters bowl is shaped like a narrow horseshoe.

Headwaters of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.

Looking East up at the Headwaters Bowl of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River from half-way between the top and bottom.

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Coming through the Rocky Channel

An adventure is composed of not knowing exactly what is going to happen next... and this section of the trail provides just that experience.

Up we go!

Rocky channel between headwaters bowl and Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus.
Rocky channel between the top of the headwaters bowl and Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus at the bottom.
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Coming through the Rocky Channel

Wall to Northeast as we climb up to our Right, Southeast.

Granite cliffs along route between Clarks Fork River and the headwaters bowl.

Sweet granite cliffs along route between Clarks Fork River and the top of the headwaters bowl.

This is an amazing little piece of our route. A creek runs down from the top of the headwaters bowl through this channel in the cliffs to the Clarks Fork at their base.

Along the way are a series of sweet spots.

There were a couple of nice places one could camp here, up near the top and at the top.

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Looking through the Top of the Rocky Channel at the top of the Headwaters Bowl

Sweet relief:
The channel eases its way onto the top rim of the headwaters bowl. We are pointing South, maybe a bit West of South.

We will turn Left, East as the channel recedes and the terrain opens up onto the broad flat wrapping around the top of the cliffs making up the Clarks Fork headwaters bowl.

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Trail from the Clarks Fork River up to the top of the headwaters bowl.

The final bit of our route between top of headwaters bowl and the River below.

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Segment VII

Cross-Country
between
Rim of Headwaters Bowl
and the
Saint Marys Pass Trail

Images and Guide
Cross-Country from Headwaters Bowl East (Southbound on TYT) to Saint Marys Pass Trail

Film
Off the Saint Marys Pass Trail cross-country into the Headwaters of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River

route distance
1.21 miles of no trail no ducks, but through open terrain

No overall elevation change

video duration
9:53

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Exploring the Potential ways down to the Clarks Fork

Working my way East around the South side of the upper rim of the Headwaters I explored this channel before rejecting it as a route down. I'd need wings for this one.

I took this shot after climbing back out of my exploratory probe down mountain.

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The wrong way down to the Clarks Fork!

The wrong way down to the Clarks Fork!

This is a bit East of the route down.

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View from the Top

Stanislaus Peak tops the Northern ridgeline above the Clarks Fork viewed looking West from the rim at the top of the Headwaters Bowl of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.

Stanislaus Peak from the Headwaters of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.

Stanislaus Peak from the Headwaters of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.

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Long View of the Stanislaus Drainage

Twisting path of Clarks Fork through the Western Flank of the Sierra Nevada Mountains from the top of the Headwaters Bowl.

View down the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus from the Headwaters Bowl.
View West down the valley of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.

Segment VIII

Saint Marys Pass Trail and Trailhead

Images and Guide
Connecting up with the Saint Marys Pass Trail below Sonora Peak South down to Highway 108 trailhead.

Film
Saint Marys Pass Trailhead and up the Trail Route Northbound.

By route I mean that when the trail up from the Saint Marys Pass Trailhead brings us above the elevation of the granite formation blocking the SE approach to Saint Marys Pass, and the trail draws near and above the creek, I begin looking West for a good cross-country route through Saint Marys Pass into the headwaters bowl of the Clarks Fork.

route distance
1.14 miles of well maintained trail

10400 to 9440 feet
-960 feet

video duration
16:53

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Wilderness Boundary in the Center of Saint Marys Pass at edge of Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River headwaters bowl

Our view is gazing Northwest as we climb Northbound making our way cross country into the Headwaters Bowl of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus on the other side of the crestline.

Trail guide directions.

At our back is the Saint Marys Pass Trail which we exited.

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Carson Iceberg Wilderness Boundary around Clarks Fork Headwaters.

Carson Iceberg Wilderness Boundary around Clarks Fork Headwaters.

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Saint Marys Pass

Saint Marys Pass is the low point making up the saddle in the ridge on the Right side of the image, to the Right of the pointy feature above upper section of the granite feature.

My plan is to use the Saint Marys Pass Trail to put myself above the granite so I have a clear traverse from the trail to Saint Marys Pass.

Camelback formation.

Saint Marys Pass from the East side.

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Camelback formation.

Camelback formation sitting at the base of the Southwest corner of Sonora Peak.

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Flowers.
Flowers.

Dayhiker Heaven

I spotted a fast moving hiker coming down the trail.
The Saint Marys Pass Trailhead access to both Sonora and Stanislaus Peaks makes this trailhead a favorite for serious dayhikers.

Gerry coming down the Saint Marys Pass Trail.

Gerry is a local day hiker dedicated to seeing the Sierra.

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Deadman Creek and Highway 108

Descending to the Saint Marys Pass Trailhead at the bottom of our trail along the Western edge of the meadow feeding Deadman Creek situated between Leavitt and Sonora Peaks is visible with Highway 108 winding its way along its edge.

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Westbound Highway 108 turning into the Big V.

Westbound Highway 108 turning into the Big V.

This is the bottom of the meadow off the West flank from Sonora Pass where Deadman Creek begins its flow down to the Middle Fork of the Stanislaus River through Kennedy Meadows Pack Station.

Our Saint Marys Pass Trailhead is located along the North edge of this meadow about a mile West of Sonora Pass.

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Leavitt Peak and Massif

We get great views of the Leavitt Massif to our South and note Leavitt Peak's position in the surrounding terrain.

Leavitt Massif to our South.

Leavitt Massif to our South.

Leavitt Peak is the peak to the Right down the ridgeline from the predominant peak, which is not Leavitt Peak but is Peak 10480.
Peak 10480 is the highest peak on the Northern flank of the Leavitt Massif. Leavitt Peak is what appears as a double peak, to the Right, and across the end of the gap at the end of the descending ridgeline from Peak 10480.

The peaks on the Left side of the image are all along the Pacific Crest Trail route over Leavitt Massif. That, my friends, is the Sierra Crestline South of Sonora Pass. The ridge descending to the Right of Leavitt Peak divides Deadman Creek's drainage on this side from Kennedy Creek's on its South side.

Views of Leavitt Massif and Peak
Let's take a look at these mountains approaching Sonora Pass from the North along the PCT, and take a close-up look at Peak 10480 from the PCT climbing up it, and then hike down the Pacific Crest Trail South from Peak 10480 to take a close-up look at Leavitt Peak too.

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Leavitt Peak

Leavitt Peak.

View South
Leavitt Peak peeking out from behind its own surrounding lower mountains, in this case the end of the tail of terrain descending South from the crest of Peak 10480.

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Southwest edge of Sonora Peak

Camelback lava formation on the Southwest side of Sonora Peak.

View North

Camelback lava formation on the Southwest side of Sonora Peak.

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Sonora Peak

Dominating the scene to our Northeast. The Saint Marys Pass Trail runs up the Southwestern shoulder descending from Sonora Peak.

Sonora Peak to the Northeast.

Sonora Peak to the Northeast.

The Pacific Crest Trail route almost reaches the rock formations on the Southwestern flank of Sonora Peak before turning down to Sonora Pass.
That rock formation is the volcanic formation on the upper far Right of the image above, below the top of Sonora Peak.

We're at the point where the PCT and TYT come closest together before they join trails entering Yosemite.

The map below Right shows where the trails swing close together off the Southwestern corner of Sonora Peak.

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Local Color

High Sierra grasshopper at 9500 feet.

High Sierra grasshopper at 9500 feet.

Living Things:
Insects

Saint Marys Pass Trailhead

The beginning, the end, or another way point on our endless trail.

Sonora Pass Region Hiking Map
USGS 30 minute topo map

Saint Marys Pass Trailhead.

Saint Marys Pass Trailhead.

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Saint Marys Pass Trailhead

Sonora Pass Trailheads

Northbound Hikers
If we are planning on hiking North through the Saint Marys Pass trailhead we are likely driving or hitching up Highway 108 to the trailhead. Keep your eyes open for the trailhead.

The nondescript sign marking the short dirt track up to the lonely Saint Marys Pass trailhead is easy to miss. The Saint Marys Pass trailhead itself is situated a short distance up a dirt road one mile West of Sonora Pass on the North side of Highway 108 above the great meadow.
The trailhead is situated along along the lightly wooded Northern perimeter of the large meadow that opens up below the Western side of Sonora Pass's gap in the mountains.
This meadow drains into Deadman Creek carrying the runoff from the Western flanks of the surrounding mountains down to the Middle fork of the Stanislaus River at Kennedy Meadows.

Our route, if hiking North through Saint Marys Pass, brings us and drops us into the top of the massive Western drainage off this whole section of the Western Sierra Crest into the top of the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.
Or we have hiked South over Saint Marys Pass to enter the watershed of the Middle Fork of the Stanislaus, which drains the next segment of the Crestline South from the South flank of Sonora Peak, including the South and Western flanks of the Leavitt Massif, on down to the North flank of Granite Dome.

Starting Backpacking Trips from Sonora or Saint Marys Passes
Drivers Eastbound on Highway 108 will pass a very noticeable waterfall climbing up the last steep section of Highway 108 to and through a gap beyond which the road flattens considerably entering the bottom of the substantial high altitude meadow spreading down West flank from just to the West of Sonora Pass.

The Eastbound Sonora Pass Road begins bending a long arc to the Northeast tracing out the perimeter of this expansive high altitude meadow on our final approach to Sonora Pass.
When the road bends enough to begin pointing us directly East we start looking for the Sign and road for Saint Marys Pass Trailhead on the North side of the road.
Westbound drivers along Highway 108 will find the Saint Marys Pass trailhead about a mile West of Sonora Pass.

We will notice a rather exposed car-camping site sitting on the South side of Highway 108 just a few paces East of the Saint Marys Pass trailhead sign. Better car camping sites are located a short distance West, down the dirt roads located along the North side of Highway 108 a short ways down towards the bottom of the meadow.

Sonora Pass Car Camping

Map with Car Camping sites noted near Sonora Pass

Sonora Pass Corridor Road Map

Use of Saint Marys Pass Trailhead
Very few Northbound hikers along the Pacific Crest Trail hike the mile West down Highway 108 to continue North on the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route.

In fact there are very few backpackers who hike this 11.25 mile section of mostly unmarked and unmaintained trail between the end of the Clarks Fork Road and the trailhead at Saint Marys Pass.
We become aware of this fact as the trail fades away due to lack of use as well as lack of maintenance. The same is true in the Southbound direction. Very few backpackers attempt this section of the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail hiking the TYT Southbound.

The vast majority of use at the Saint Marys Pass trailhead is by dayhikers. The dayhikers are primarily attracted the access the trailhead offers to Stanislaus and Sonora Peaks.

Backpackers along this section of the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail are discouraged by the steepness and difficulty of the unmaintained section of the TYT route between Saint Marys Pass and the Boulder Creek trail junction.
The Boulder Creek trail junction is located 8.69 miles North of the Saint Marys Pass trailhead, and another 2.56 miles further North brings us through the Clarks Fork Trailhead onto the paved road.
The Boulder Creek trail junction marks the point on the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail where trail conditions South towards Saint Marys Pass begin deteriorating while the trail North to the trailhead at the top of the Clarks Fork Road is well maintained.

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Amenities at the Saint Marys Pass Trailhead
At the Saint Marys Pass trailhead there are a couple of flat sleeping spots under the nearby trees and a year-round stream just East of the trailhead. There are also a couple of nice flats and a primitive fire spot in the rocks on the rocky granite rise about 20 yards directly West of the trailhead parking.

Look West up the low rise at the left (South) side of the granite boulder up there for the sheltered little private site just West of the trailhead.

Compass points of the trail guide.

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Saint Marys Pass roadsign from Highway 108.

Saint Marys Pass road sign from Highway 108.

Sign Missing as of July 2015, which makes the narrow dirt road difficult to locate...

Kennedy Meadows is nine miles West down Highway 108, Sonora Pass a mile to our East.

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Hiking South through the Saint Marys Pass Trailhead onto Highway 108 finishes the 34.57 mile long section of the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail from Lake Alpine to Saint Marys Pass.

Good Work!

Sonora Pass Corridor Road Map

South on the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail
Kennedy Meadows Pack Station
Classic High Sierra Resupply
Kennedy Meadows to Relief Reservoir
USGS 15 minute topo hiking map

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North: Boulder Lake junction                                                       South: Sonora Pass Trailheads

Our progress down the
Tahoe to Yosemite Trail

Completed:

Total
Meeks Bay to Saint Marys Pass
102.59 miles

Last Section
Lake Alpine (Hwy 4) to Saint Marys Pass (Hwy 108)
34.57 miles

Last Segment
Boulder Creek to Saint Marys Pass Trailhead
8.69 miles

Forum
Meeks Bay to Lake Alpine
Miles and Elevations

Next Section
Kennedy Meadows Pack Station to Tuolumne Meadows
75 miles

COMPLETED:
The Last Unmaintained Tahoe to Yosemite Trail Section

Now that we Southbound TYT backpackers have completed this most difficult trail segment across the South end of the Carson Iceberg Wilderness we have finally put all the non-maintained sections of the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail behind us. Whew!

Next:
But we are not quite yet done with another of the defining characteristics that differentiate the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail from the Pacific Crest Trail: Great sweeps of the trail up and down the Western Flank of the High Sierra Nevada Mountains. The PCT don't do that!

Viva La Difference!
The PCT vs the TYT
The Pacific Crest Trail continues South from 9643 feet of elevation at Sonora Pass climbing to 10,8000 feet up along the Sierra Crestline crossing Leavitt Peak.
The Tahoe to Yosemite Trail does just the opposite. The TYT takes another great dive down the Western Flank plunging to 6400 feet of elevation at Kennedy Meadows Pack Station. It's worth it. I really like Kennedy Meadows Pack Station.
From KM the TYT climbs steadily back up to the Sierra Crest. Nice!
Departing Kennedy Meadows we carve a 10.92 mile arc bending back up to 9760 feet of elevation climbing through the intriguing beauty and complexity of Summit Creek to and through Brown Bear Pass into the High Emigrant Basin.

At the top of this great Sierra canyon it feels like we are touching the sky hiking through the saddle of Brown Bear Pass looking at a big chunk of the Sierra Crestline across the high altitude heart of the Emigrant Wilderness.

The route of the TYT is very unlike the route of the Pacific Crest Trail South of Sonora Pass. The PCT route follows the boundary defining the Eastern edge of the Emigrant Wilderness over Leavitt Massif before turning East down Kennedy Canyon towards the West West Walker River. The route of the PCT effectively brings the PCT hiker around the the next section of the Sierra Crest and the Emigrant Wilderness at the same time.

Once over Leavitt Peak the PCT skirts around the high elevation Emigrant and Grizzly Meadows that are stashed between Big Sam and Bond Pass along the Sierra Crestline. The PCT route bends around the High Emigrant Basin, effectively missing the unique beauties stashed up there in the heart of the Emigrant Wilderness.

Leavitt Massif is wonderful, and our TYT route through Kennedy Meadows misses it, but Leavitt Peak does not represent the range of beauties in Emigrant Wilderness. It is a higher route than the TYT South out of Kennedy Meadows, but lacks the complexity we find hiking the granite-volcanic interface up Summit Creek up from Kennedy Meadows, or the sub-alpine eden of the Emigrant and Grizzly Meadows. This is divine terrain.

The stupid routing of the PCT around Emigrant Wilderness is good for me, and other hikers who enjoy the quiet preserved by routing the PCT around this unique place. My appreciation goes out to whoever was responsible for routing the PCT around Emigrant Wilderness.

The section of this map below depicting the South side of Highway 108 shows all of our PCT & TYT options South to Yosemite.

Sonora Pass Region Map
30 minute USGS topo map

Click the black-dotted routes for detailed maps!

Northbound PCT Alternative Routes
Northbound PCT hikers can easily modify their route to carry them across the High Emigrant Wilderness, either by hiking through Bond Pass to Brown Bear Pass and down Summit Creek to Kennedy Meadows as seen on the map below, or down Kennedy Creek from the top of Kennedy Canyon, shown on the second map below.

Bond Pass to Brown Bear Pass
15 minute USGS top map

The easiest way, but not the most scenic, is for Northbound PCT hikers to continue hiking West from the trail junction at the top of Kennedy Canyon on the South side of Leavitt Peak, rather than South over Leavitt Peak to Highway 108.
This alternative route brings us through the canyon below the South Flank of Leavitt Peak past Kennedy Lake to Summit Creek just a couple of miles above Kennedy Meadows Pack Station.

This is a quick and easy route into Kennedy Meadows Pack Station.

Kennedy Canyon to Kennedy Creek and Lake
USGS 15 minute backpacking map

The first route option above, from Bond to Brown Bear Passes, brings us through some of the most stunningly beautiful sections of the Emigrant Wilderness, rather than around them... The second option is not as scenic, but is the most effective/efficient way to hike directly into Kennedy Meadows off the Northbound PCT.

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The
TYT
Sweeps
down the
Western Sierra Flank

Our first sweep down-mountain along the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail was down from 9360 feet crossing Round Top near Carson Pass descending into the difficult unmaintained trail section of Summit City Creek down to Camp Irene at 5280 feet.
What goes down in the mountains always climbs again. These great sweeps of the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail down the Western flank are inevitably followed by long hard climbs back to high points along the Sierra Crest. Our descent to Camp Irene was followed by our big climb across the peak of 8720 foot Mount Reba.

And so too here at Saint Marys Pass Trailhead we are at a high point along the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail about to head down to a deep low point.
To our North we found the low point of this segment of trail along the Clarks Fork Road at 6160 feet before we hiked up to 10,400 feet crossing Saint Marys Pass.
To our South we will now drop down to 6400 feet passing through Kennedy Meadows Pack Station before backpacking our way up the Western flank of the Sierra via Summit Creek into and across the splendors of the High Emigrant Basin over to Bond Pass's 9720 foot entry point into the Northwestern corner of the North Yosemite Backcountry.

Specifically, I believe that the TYT route South from Kennedy Meadows is more scenic, longer, and does more climbing through more diverse levels of Sierra beauty to the North Yosemite Backcountry than the PCT South from Sonora Pass.

In general, the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail veers much further away from the Sierra Crestline and dives deeper in elevation down the Western flank of the Sierra between returns to the crest than the Pacific Crest Trail as they follow their very divergent, but yet roughly parallel routes down the length of the North Sierra.

The PCT South of the Tahoe Basin has remained predominately on the East flank of the Sierra just below or along the crestline, with a couple of notable exceptions. The TYT stays on the Western flank, without exception.

Which route appeals to you more depends on your particular definition of fun. I like 'em both, and long ago began to mix and match up various sections of each to make my own custom long distance backpacking routes from Tahoe to Yosemite and on down to Whitney.

My goal here is to open this can of worms up a bit for you, get you to peek inside, then watch you rip the lid off yourself.

Our next drop in elevation hiking the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail brings us down to and through Kennedy Meadows Pack Station. Our next section of the TYT from Kennedy Meadows to Bond Pass in Yosemite is also the last real difference between the PCT and TYT.
After taking divergent routes around and across the Mokelumne, Carson Iceberg, and Emigrant Wilderness, the PCT and TYT rejoin in the North Yosemite Backcountry below Bond Pass at the top of Jack Main Canyon.

Southbound TYT Trailhead on Highway 108
is
Offset
from the
Northbound Trailhead

But before they rejoin again the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail's next Southbound trailhead is far offset from its Northbound Saint Marys Pass trailhead we just hiked through onto Highway 108. We've got to get nine miles down Highway 108 to the next Southbound TYT trailhead at KM!

Where is it?
Our Southbound TYT trailhead is nine miles West down the steep and twisting Highway 108 where we find the Kennedy Meadows Pack Station turnoff on the South side of Highway 108.
From the KM turnoff a mile-long poorly paved road brings us to the gate on the South side of Kennedy Meadows Pack Station. From the South gate a three-quarter mile hiker/horse-only dirt road finally brings us out to the actual trailhead and our Southbound TYT route's entrance into Emigrant Wilderness.

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Catch a Ride
down to
Kennedy Meadows Pack Station

I strongly suggest backpackers on the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route decide to hitch-hike West down Highway 108 to Kennedy Meadows Pack Station rather than attempt to hike down Highway 108. PCT hikers too!
This is a very narrow and twisting road driven by many drivers who are in over their heads. They very well may not be capable of negotiating the surprise appearance of a roadside backpacker on one of the narrow switchbacks.

As I mentioned above, Dee was driving up the twisting upper sections of Highway 108 like Mario Andretti. I was not worried, as Dee was downshifting and braking properly as she entered cork-screwing corners, and pulling good acceleration out. Old Dee knew how to drive mountain roads.

Lots of folks don't have that skill.

Trails Rejoined
South of Emigrant Wilderness the Southbound PCT and TYT rejoin at the top of Jack Main Canyon. Our last trail option differentiating the PCT from the TYT is where the TYT takes the high route around Tilden Lake while the PCT loops low around Wilmer Lake. Besides that last slight divergence the TYT and PCT routes remained unified down to Tuolumne Meadows across the North Yosemite Backcountry.

I generally decide between the Wilmer or Tilden trail option based on the time of year. Early in Spring I choose the Tilden Lake Loop, as the terrain around Tilden dries out more quickly than the lower elevation Wilmer Lake, which will be living under a thicker cloud of mosquitoes early in the season. And later in the season as well, as Wilmer seems to be sitting atop a big granite bowl which holds great amounts of moisture late into the Summer Season, feeding and keeping Spring Mosquito conditions alive long after the heat of Summer dries out the surrounding terrain.

Heck, Tilden gets a better breeze all Summer long, which blows the mosquitoes away. Tilden is also the route less traveled, which makes it quieter than the PCT around Wilmer Lake.

Other than mosquito considerations, if I was you I would choose to hike the route I had not yet hiked.

Do one. Do the other. Mix your favorite sections, and expand the length of your trips, skills, fitness, and knowledge simultaneously into greater challenges and rewards.

comments Forum

7.5 topo hiking Map
Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River

7.5 topo hiking Map
Clarks Fork to Saint Marys Pass

30 min topo hiking Map
Carson Iceberg Wilderness Hiking Map

Compass points the hiker's way down the trail guide.

Miles and Elevations

Next page South
Sonora Pass trailheads

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Where Do We Go
From
Sonora-Saint Marys Passes?

Below are our options North and South
on the
TYT and PCT

Backpacking
Trail Guide

North
TYT

to
Boulder Lake junction
*

 

Backpacking
Trail Guide

South
TYT

Kennedy Meadows
to
Relief Reservoir

Sonora Pass Trailheads

Backpacking
Trail Guide

East
to the
PCT
from the

TYT

Boulder Lake Trail

 

Backpacking
Trail Guide

South
PCT

Over
Leavitt Peak


Sonora Pass Trailheads

Backpacking
Trail Guide

North
PCT

East Carson River
to
Sonora Pass

Sonora Pass Trailheads

Note
*The guide page above covers the Southbound TYT from Boulder Lake trail junction to Saint Marys Pass.

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If you have specific experiences, comments, questions, or pictures and videos of the Pacific Crest Trail between Lake Alpine and Saint Marys Pass, Post up here:
Forum Section
Lake Alpine to Saint Marys Pass
Forum Segment
Boulder Lake to Saint Marys Pass

Unmaintained Segment Update
Clarks Fork Meadow to Saint Marys Pass

What have you seen here?

North: Jenkins Canyon to Boulder Lake junction                                                   South: Sonora Pass Trailheads

Trailhead
Contact
Alex Wierbinski

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