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Hiking the Tahoe to Yosemite and Pacific Crest Trails through the Mokelumne Wilderness
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The El Dorado National Forest for Long Distance and Local Backpackers
The National Forests and Wilderness between Carson Pass and Ebbetts Pass |
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This trail guide covers the Sierra Crest between Lake Tahoe and Mount Whitney, and does not pretend to give you a comprehensive view of the El Dorado National Forest. But I do treat the El Dorado National Forest as it pertains to the main long distance backpacking routes along the Sierra Crest, the Tahoe to Yosemite and Pacific Crest Trails.
The Lay of the Land Backpacking South out of the Lake Tahoe Basin and out of the Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit through the Carson Gap (MAP), you are entering the Amador Ranger District of the El Dorado National Forest near the beginnings of the boundary between the Toiyabe and El Dorado National Forests. Both of these National Forests surround the Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit, the Toiyabe around the Eastern side of Lake Tahoe and the El Dorado the Western. These National Forests meet on the Southern edge of the Lake Tahoe Basin, where the Toiyabe NF boundary-line running North-South along the crestline of the Carson Range intersects with boundary of the El Dorado coming around the Southwestern crestline of the Tahoe Basin. These lines intersect and run South from near our exit point from the Tahoe Basin through the Carson Gap. Hiking South through the Carson Gap on the TYT-PCT route out of the Lake Tahoe Basin puts the boundary-line between the El Dorado and Toiyabe National Forests just to your left, (East) on our way through Carson Pass. This boundary continues South along a very convoluted path down the Sierra Crest to Ebbetts Pass, with our Pacific Crest Trail route bouncing between the El Dorado and Toiyabe National Forests, and in-and-out of the tattered boundary of the Mokelumne Wilderness as well. Essentially, the El Dorado National Forest administers the Western flank of the Sierras between Carson Pass to just North of Highway 4 at Lake Alpine along the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route, while the Toiyabe National Forest administers the Eastern flank of the Sierras from far to the North of Lake Tahoe and far to the South past Ebbetts Pass along the Pacific Crest Trail. The Pacific Crest Trail runs along the Eastern Flank of the Sierra Nevada between Lake Tahoe and the Yosemite Bounary, while the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail explores the Western Flank down to the Yosemite Boundary. Both of these trails pass through the Molkelumne Wilderness between Highway 88 and Highway 4, just on different sides of the Wilderness.. The Mokelumne Wilderness The Mokelumne Wilderness showcases and protects the beautiful terrain along the Sierra Crest and flanks between the Carson Pass along Highway 88 South down to Ebbetts Pass on Highway 4. The Mokelumne Wilderness is divided East and West along the top of the Sierra Crestline from Carson Pass South down to Ebbetts Pass. The Mokelumne Wilderness covers territory on both the Eastern and Western flanks of the Sierra Nevada, but the majority of the Mokelumne Wilderness lays on the Western flank, within the El Dorado National Forest. The Eastern side of the Mokelumne Wilderness has a complex boundary line that is deeply penetrated by cut outs with road access as opposed to the massive undisturbed bulk of the Western Mokelumne Wilderness. The Eastern side of the Mokelumne Wilderness in the Toiyabe National Forest looks like it was drawn with a shotgun. The PCT The Eastern side of the Mokelumne Wilderness is therefore sitting within and is administered by the Toiyabe National Forest. The Mokelumne Wilderness along the Western flank of the Sierra Nevada is within the El Dorado National Forest. The Pacific Crest Trail is the Eastern Flank route along the Sierra Nevada Mountain crestline across the Mokelumne Wilderness, though the Toiyabe National Forest continues far South of where the Mokelumne Wilderness terminates just a bit North of Ebbetts Pass. The Toiyabe National Forest administers the Pacific Crest Trail route South through the Carson Iceberg Wilderness down to Sonora Pass, and most of the route from Sonora Pass South to the Yosemite National Park boundary at Dorothy Lake Pass as well. The majority of your PCT hike between the Lake Tahoe Basin down to the Yosemite boundary is within the Toiyabe National Forest. Not so with the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail's route. The TYT The Tahoe to Yosemite Trail passes South into the Mokelumne Wilderness when it turns onto the Western flank of the Sierra Nevada South of the Carson Gap. South of Carson Pass the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail passes through the heart of the El Dorado National Forest's section of the Mokelumne Wilderness, after passing through the heart of the pretty little Carson Pass Management Area. In total, the El Dorado National Forest only spans 13.05 miles of our trip, but they are beautiful and exciting miles, from the Carson Gap to the ford of the North Mokelumne River at Camp Irene. Unlike the Pacific Crest Trail's high and dry route deeply cut through the desolate volcanic beauty of the Eastern Flank of the Sierra Crestline, the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail begins shedding elevation after crossing South of Round Top. We will hike down into the unmaintained trail section through Summit City Creek's great granite canyon to the North Mokelumne River at Camp Irene, where we again pick up regular trail as we pass out of the El Dorado National Forest. Though the TYT and PCT routes shared the same trail from Middle Velma Lake in Desolation Wilderness down to the Carson Gap, from our turn Southwest into the Summit City Creek South to Jenkins Canyon (located in the next National Forest to our South, the Stanislaus NF) the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route is up to fifteen miles West of the actual Sierra Crestline and drops down to 6000 feet of elevation. This can make for some hot hiking. Temps during July can hit the high 80s and low 90s! South of Jenkins Canyon the nature of the terrain begins to push the TYT and PCT routes closer together as they approach Highway 108, the Sonora Pass Road. The PCT and TYT trailheads are only a mile apart on Highway 108 before the TYT again takes a Western flank route South from Kennedy Meadows. Though the Western flank route of the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail is far off of the Sierra Crestline this is no problem, and many backpackers even consider this route superior to the Pacific Crest Trail's high route along the Eastern Flank of the Sierra. Personally, I weave together what I consider the best routes, or routes I have not seen before, through each section from Tahoe to Whitney. |
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Carson PassThe Northern Gateway to hike South into the El Dorado or Toiyabe National Forests |
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| Carson Pass Cabin, Carson Pass Highway 88 | Just South of the Carson Cabin on the PCT you enter the Mokelumne Wilderness. map |
The Carson Pass Management Area |
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The Carson Pass Management AreaCPMA information, federal website The Carson Pass Management Area administers a very small, but a very popular backpacking, hiking, and car camping area due to its extremely accessible beauty. Backpackers exiting the Lake Tahoe Basin hiking Southbound on the Pacific Crest Trail hike through the edge of the CPMA while the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail cuts right across the heart of the Carson Pass Management Area.
This special management area mainly affects Tahoe to Yosemite Trail backpackers, who's route crosses the heart of this area as you hike South. I highly suggest you enjoy the beauties of camping beside Round Top Lake on your way South along the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail. The problem is that permits are highly regulated in this area. The Carson Pass Management Area is incredibly regulated. Preserving the easily accessible stunning beauty here sparked the formation of the CPMA by El Dorado and Toiyabe National Forests to combat overuse. I was stunned (but not surprised) when they even went to the extent of actually assigning campsites. I understand that the problem comes down to the relationship between the small size of the Round Top hiking area, its easy accessibility from huge and growing population centers, and the large number of people already using it. A balance must be struck. Very Few Campsites The CPMA laid out designated campsites to both limit the number of overnight permits and contain the damage of campsites to a few locations. This tiny area administers Winnemucca Lake (three sites), Round Top Lake (six sites), and 4th of July Lake (six sites). This shortage of sites and very heavy local backpacker traffic means that local backpackers, backpackers hiking in for a weekender or short local trip into or around the Carson Pass Management Area, are lined up every weekend morning during the high Summer Backpacking season at the Carson Pass Cabin to get one of the few permits available. This presents potential, but not insurmountable problems for long distance backpackers. The solution relies on information and planning. First, every long-distance permit issued from one National Forest must be honored subsequent NFs that you hike through. Therefore it is very important that you specify "Round Top" or "Fourth of July Lake" as a campsite. This will be honored on your long distance backpacking trip through the Carson Pass Management Area. Remember, permits for short backpacking trips that start and stay within this small zone centered around Carson Pass can only be had at the Carson Pass Cabin, or the Amador Ranger Station when the Carson Pass Cabin is closed. (contacts) If you are coming in from the East, check with the Carson Ranger District of Toiyabe National Forest Ranger Station. The Carson Pass Management Area
Trailhead map of the Carson Pass Management Area: Yellow line marks the CPMA, the Green Line marks the boundary of the Mokelumne Wilderness.
Add your perspective-comments-experience The Carson Pass Management Area for Long Distance BackpackersThe Pacific Crest Trail and Tahoe to Yosemite routesHikers on both the Tahoe to Yosemite and Pacific Crest Trails will touch the Carson Pass Management Area. Tahoe to Yosemite Route through the Carson Pass Management AreaSouthbound backpackers on the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route turn Southwest from the Carson Gap to pass through the heart of the Carson Pass Management Area, which is centered on the magnificent Round Top and Sisters massif. Tahoe to Yosemite Trail hikers are heading South across Round Top and The Sisters to pass through the El Dorado National Forest administered Western Mokelumne Wilderness to Lake Alpine. This route crosses the Western flank of the Sierra Nevada on its way South towards Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite. You would be hiking South on the other side of the mountain, the Eastern Flank, if you had chosen to hike the Pacific Crest Trail route South out of the Tahoe Basin via Carson Pass. Hiking South from Carson Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail route brings you around the perimeter of the Carson Pass Management Area. Tahoe to Yosemite Trail hikers walk through the heart of the Carson Pass Management Area over Round Top and past Fourth of July Lake, or possibly Winnemucca Lake, depending on the route you selected as you passed through the Carson Gap on your way over to Summit City Creek. Your route options. I recommend spending a night at Round Top Lake to give yourself an early start the next morning through the 9.52 mile unmaintained section of trail between Summit City Creek and Camp Irene. Heck, you should camp at Round Top Lake because regardless of the trail you are hiking, be it the Tahoe to Yosemite or Pacific Crest Trail because it is the finest places to camp for many miles in every direction. Really. Through Hiker Permits As you are a hiker passing through multiple National Forests on your way South to Mount Whitney, each subsequent National Forest and Wilderness Area you pass through must honor your original permit. You do not have to get any additional permits after obtaining your permit from the issuing authority of your trailhead. Well, right now, in 2012 at least. For a while the Whitney Zone was requiring that all permits issued with an exit through the Whitney Portal have a "Whitney Stamp" issued by them. That policy ended a number of years ago. I've got a "Whitney Stamp" on one of my Tahoe to Whitney permits from that era. At this time there are no "pre-restrictions" for special zones that I am aware of. Post up if you are aware of any "double" permit zones in the Sierra Nevada Mountains between Lake Tahoe and Mount Whitney. The nice folks at the Carson Pass Management Area are very hard-ass about getting permits from them for trips into the CPMA, but they must honor permits issued by other National Forests. If you want to camp at Round Top or Fourth of July Lake Lake, then make sure that you name it as a campsite on the permit you draw from the permitting authority of your starting trailhead. The Pacific Crest Trail Route through the Carson Pass Management AreaHikers on the Pacific Crest Trail just graze the Eastern boundary of the Carson Pass Management Area. The Pacific Crest Trail's route along the Eastern edge of the Carson Pass Management Area puts Round Top Lake 2.14 miles to the West of the Winnemucca Lake trail junction with the Pacific Crest Trail. I figure that the PCT hiker's Eastern route across the Mokelumne Wilderness to or from Ebbetts Pass makes camping in the Carson Pass Management Area a secondary consideration to their daily quest for mileage, but it is still a possibility. As camping at Round Top Lake is off of the Pacific Crest Trail's route, this side trip will adds a round trip distance of 4.28 miles to your total mileage to and from the Pacific Crest Trail at the Winnemucca Lake trail junction. That distance can be shortened a bit. I do not hike East back to the Pacific Crest Trail through Winnemucca Lake. Instead I hike North and reconnect with the Pacific Crest Trail entering the Lake Tahoe Basin at the Carson Gap via either the Lost Cabin or the Woods Creek trail routes. The former is steeper and shorter, the latter gentler but longer. Camping at Round Top Lake may be worth the extra efforts and miles. Round Top Lake offers camping at the highest altitude (9360 feet), with the best views, and has the nicest environment of all the campsites from Showers Lake (4.79 miles North of Carson Pass), to the series of lakes South of Blue Lake Road. Heck, I don't think Northbound Hikers are going to see anywhere to camp in the 9000 foot elevation range for the rest of the Pacific Crest Trail all the way to Canada. Correct me if I'm wrong, but Round Top will be Pacific Crest Trailers last high altitude campsite! I enjoy Round Top Lake better than both of those other nearby places to camp, and many others apparently agree with me, judging by the amount of locals there on a Summer weekend. As backpackers on the Pacific Crest Trail route are going to just scrape the Eastern edge of the Carson Pass Management Area on their way past, I figure that it is unlikely that a serious Pacific Crest Trail hiker will actually veer off the Pacific Crest Trail to camp at Round Top, let alone anywhere else off of the Pacific Crest Trail. This is due to the pressure of time constraints. But I've seen it happen. If you are hiking the Pacific Crest Trail route in sections or hiking the Lake Tahoe to Mount Whitney trails you have the flexibility to meander a bit off of your route. I can't help but recommend planning a night at Round Top Lake into your itinerary. As I mentioned, it is the highest, if not the finest place to camp for miles in every direction. Again, if you are hiking long distances, MAKE SURE that you name your Carson Pass Management Area campsite location on your Permit! (i.e., "Round Top Lake.") I've never worried about naming one of their specific campsites on any of my through permits through here, though I guess I could. The sites are sequentially numbered at each location. Carson Pass Management Area. As I repeat, a through hiker's subsequent National Forests, Wilderness, and National Parks must honor permits issued by other National Forests and Special Zones. If you did not name a campsite in the Carson Pass Management Area on your original permit you will have to hike to the Carson Cabin to see if an overnight permit is available. This is true of every location down the trail to the Whitney Portal. Make sure that you specifically name every location, especially locations in crowded location like Yosemite that you want to camp at on your permit. As a through hiker, all permitting authorities, even the ones that are totally "booked up" must honor your permit. I am not saying that you cannot camp in a place not named on your permit, but it is very important that all of the places that you plan on camping in high-traffic "Special Zones," such as the CPMA, Yosemite, and "The Whitney Zone" should be specifically named on your permit. This will minimize troubles with the Local Ranger Man. Better safe than disappointed. Carson Pass Management Area for Short TripsThe Sad Facts about the Carson Pass Management Area: It's Small. It's Crowded. Permits Short distance backpackers are served on a first-come, first-served basis at the Carson Pass Management Area. The problem with this is that Carson Pass Management Area is very small has very limited camping for backpackers. There are a grand total of 15 campsites in the whole Carson Pass Management Area. Winnemucca Lake has 3 sites, Round Top Lake has 6 sites, and Fourth of July Lake has 6 sites. Hey, it's a small and intensely beautiful place. Permits for these sites are not available over the phone, by mail, or by reservation. Permits for trips starting and staying in the Carson Pass Management Area will only be issued at the Carson Pass Cabin during summertime, and at the Amador Ranger Station when the Carson Pass Cabin is closed. Even with these restrictions the Carson Pass Management Area is busy. Round Top Lake is a premium beautiful high altitude lake very close to both paved roads and the over-grown population of Lake Tahoe. During Summer weekends the short distance backpacker hoping to camp on Round Top would be well served to have alternative backpacking plans, even if you can get to the Carson Pass Cabin when they open at (8am?). There may be no permits available for folk at the end of the line. An alternative would be to backpack North from Carson Pass into Meiss Meadow, (In the Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit, which requires no permits at all!) and continue to the NW on the PCT-TY route towards Showers Lake, or the NE down Christmas Valley towards Round Lake, and on to the South Upper Truckee trail head in Meyers. |
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Local Backpacking |
Short Backpacking trips beginning into the Mokelumne Wilderness from the East will need to contact the Carson Ranger District in the Toiyabe NF for permits. Trips into the Mokelumne from the North and West must contact the Amador Ranger District in the El Dorado NF for permits. If the Carson Pass Cabin is closed, the Amador Ranger Station will issue permits. For backpacking trips North into the Mokelumne Wilderness from the South on Highway 4, note that everything West of Ebbetts Pass is within the Stanislaus NF, Calavaras Ranger District, while everything to the East of Ebbetts Pass is part of the Toiyabe NF, Carson Ranger District. |
Local Car Camping |
Free & Paid Car Camping near Woods Lake and Blue Lakes and thoughts on Car Camping on National Forest Land A few more interesting El Dorado National Forest linksDirt and improved Road Conditions in the El Dorado National Forest |
South, into the Heart of the Western Mokelumne Wilderness, in the El Dorado National Forest
Carson Pass to Lake AlpineThe Tahoe to Yosemite Trail route through the Heart of the Western Mokelumne Wilderness in the El Dorado National Forest |
The backpacker on the Tahoe to Yosemite trail will be spending the next 16.45 miles in the El Dorado National Forest administered Mokelumne Wilderness hiking between the Carson Gap and Camp Irene. After cutting Southwest through the heart of the CPMA over Round Top and The Sisters, you will drop down into the deep granite canyon of Summit City Creek on the Southern side of Round Top and The Sisters. Summit City Creek brings you down an unmaintained trail to the North Fork of the Mokelumne River. Here the El Dorado National Forest ends, but the Mokelumne Wilderness continues South up to the top of Mount Reba, though under the administrations of the Stanislaus National Forest. The Summit City Creek and Mokelumne River canyons are typical of the different types of massive granite canyons and volcanic valleys, respectively, that drain the Western Sierras. When you reach Summit City Creek on the South side of Round Top and the Sisters, you will find that your route down to the North Mokelumne River is within a majestic granite canyon. You will also find that the Lake Tahoe to Yosemite trail to Camp Irene has not been maintained for many years, and you are in for 9.52 miles of rough going. A couple of miles before hiking down to Camp Irene the route is again spottily marked. At Camp Irene the Tahoe to Yosemite route fords the North Fork of the Mokelumne River, which marks the boundary between the El Dorado and the Stanislaus National Forest. Other things also change dramatically. First and foremost for most backpackers is the fact that you are now back onto maintained trails. Of equal importance is the fact that you are crossing again crossing a grand interface between the great gray granites of Summit City Creek and the rusty red volcanic ridges dotted with hard black sculptures of the forces of erosion on volcanic debris. Observe this interface as you climb up to Mount Reba out of Camp Irene, and down the other side of Mount Reba to Lake Alpine. The interface between the volcanic and granitic terrain are a main feature of your hike down to the Yosemite National Park Boundary. From the Yosemite Boundary to Tuolumne you will once again be exclusively traveling through grand granitic terrain. The Mokelumne Wilderness extends a short distance further South from our ford of the N. Mokelumne River at Camp Irene, ending at the top of Mount Reba in the Stanislaus National Forest. The Southbound Tahoe to Yosemite route will next enter Wilderness, the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness, just South of Lake Alpine. You will be hiking through the Stanislaus National Forest down to Highway 4, and far beyond. The Stanislaus administers both the Carson Iceberg and Emigrant Wilderness Areas that we will hike across on our way South down to the Yosemite National Park Boundary. The Western side of the Carson Iceberg Wilderness is administered by the Stanislaus National forest between Highway 4 and Highway 108. The Eastern section of the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness sits on the Eastern Flank of the Sierras, and is administered by the Toiyabe National Forest between Ebbetts and Sonora Passes. |
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list of National Forests-Wilderness between Lake Tahoe and Mount Whitney
Carson Pass to Lake Alpine or Ebbetts Pass InformationAll National Forest and Wilderness Contact Information |
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| West side of the Sierra Nevada South of Carson Pass | East side of the Sierra Nevada South of Carson Pass |
Main website: EL DORADO NATIONAL FOREST Main office El Dorado National Forest100 Forni Road Placerville, CA 95667 (Highway 50) (530) 622-5061 All El Dorado Contact Information
CARSON CABINCarson Pass, Highway 88Call the Amador Ranger Station for current Carson Cabin information.
AMADOR RANGER DISTRICTDOUG BARBER, DISTRICT RANGER 26820 Silver Drive Pioneer, CA 95666 (Highway 88) Phone: 209-295-4251, TTY 209-295-5996, FAX 209-295-5998 Office Hours: 8:00 AM - 4:30 PM Summer Schedule: Monday - Saturday from Memorial Weekend to Labor Day. Winter Schedule: Monday - Friday. Closed Holidays
Entering Desolation Wilderness from the El Dorado National Forest |
Main website: TOIYABE NATIONAL FOREST Main office Toiyabe National Forest1200 Franklin Way Sparks, NV 89431 (The main access to Sierra elements of the Toiyabe NF is along Hwy 395) (775) 331-6444 Monday through Friday 8:00 am to 4:30 pm
CARSON RANGER DISTRICT(Eastern Sierra flank from Carson Range East and South of Lake Tahoe to Sonora Pass) Genny Wilson, District Ranger1536 South Carson Street Carson City, NV 89701 (775) 882-2766 Monday through Friday 8:00 am to 4:30 pm BRIDGEPORT RANGER DISTRICT(Eastern Sierra flank from Sonora Pass to NE border of Yosemite, then South along E. edge of the Hoover Wilderness) Cheryl Probert, District RangerHC 62 Box 1000 Bridgeport, CA 93517 (760) 932-7070 Winter: Monday through Friday 8:00 am to 4:30 pm Summer: Seven days a week 8:00 am to 4:30 pm |
Highway 88 to Highway 4Fed Links: National Forest and Wilderness Website Links |
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El Dorado National ForestThe Western Route of the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail El Dorado National Forest: Home Page El Dorado National Forest: Amador Ranger District El Dorado National Forest: Carson Pass Management Area El Dorado National Forest: Mokelumne Wilderness, Permit information. El Dorado National Forest: Mokelumne Wilderness, General Information. El Dorado National Forest: Mokelumne Wilderness, Hiking Topo Map |
Toiyabe National ForestThe Eastern Route of the Pacific Crest Trail TW trail guide : Toiyabe National Forest Toiyabe National Forest: Home page Toiyabe National Forest: Carson Ranger District Toiyabe National Forest: Bridgeport Ranger District Toiyabe National Forest paper Maps (for sale) |
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| Map Credit: Forest Service, Pacific Southwest Region, "A Guide to National Forest Wilderness in California." |
list of ALL National Forests-Wilderness between Lake Tahoe and Mount Whitney
Contact Alex Wierbinski
