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Tree, Poison Flat, Carson Iceberg Lake Tahoe to Mount Whitney: Your Backpacking Guide to the High Sierras Yellow Flower
Fontanillis Lake Rock with Alge.
Fontanillis Lake Rock with algae

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Backpacking to Fontanillis Lake #2, Campsite #2

Hiking the Tahoe to Yosemite and Pacific Crest Trail through Desolation Wilderness

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Trail guide section index

North: Fontanillis Lake I

South: Bayview Junction 3 This Topo map

maps index

miles & elevations Miles and Elevations Index Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit All forest-wilderness all pages

Hiking from the North to South side of Fontanillis Lake to my Second Campsite

Fontanillis Lake II: South Side

Desolation Wilderness

Meeks Bay to the South Side of Fontanillis Lake

Elevation: 8360 feet.

Hiking up to Dicks Pass from Middle Velma

2.21 miles South from, and up 440 feet from Middle Velma Lake's 7920 feet of elevation.

2.3 miles South and up 1030 feet to Dicks Pass' 9390 feet of elevation.

Mileage

2.21 miles South from Middle Velma Lake.

14.53 miles South from Meeks Bay trail head.

 

14.18 miles South to Echo Lake trail head.

16.18 miles South to Echo Summit

 

Trip Planning: The Hiking Plan in Motion

mileage and elevations

Exceptional Exfoliation

Fine granite Exfoiliation featue
Exceptional Exfoliation, detail. Full picture below. The original huge exfoliation happened long enough ago to be almost filled in and covered by soil from countless rain and runoff cycles.

Considering the Beauty of Fontanillis Lake in the Valley below Dicks Pass

Hiking with Al

The exfoliation feature above highlights the fact that terrain is in motion. Some terrains move slowly, others rapidly, but everything is in motion.

Forever in a Glance

Much of this motion is discernable over a few seasons. Other times we only see the result of eons of movement, such as the slow processes happening to the rock fragment above, the same forces that are sculpting the great mountain ranges surrounding Fontanillis Lake.

Around this shard of an exfoliation above I can picture countless seasons of Fall rains and Spring runoffs carrying layer after layer of sand and rocks down slope, depositing them over and around this exfoliation formation, for untold centuries, until the fragment was perfectly partially submerged in sand and soil for our viewing pleasure.

The semi-submerging of this rock fragment happened after this sheath of rock peeled off from its mother rock during its transition from a granite block into a granite boulder.

Seasonal Timer

The progression of the seasons times the "bloom & blossom," and also times the actions of everything else. From the Fall shut-down to the Spring Runoff and Bloom, everything from the tiniest bacteria and molds through the insects, to the bears and birds, to our very own crops everything depends upon the progression of the seasons to establish the timing of life's fertility and bounty. The character and progression of our seasons is not just limited to timing life.

The progression of the seasons does not just affect bloom, blossom, and seed times of the plants. It also sets the pace for the weathering, erosion, and runoff sculpting of the natural terrain itself.

The progression of the seasons determines the shape and rate of change of the physical terrain itself as well as timing and feeding the cycle of life nestled within the physical terrain.

The changed character and timing of the seasons have already altered the pace and timing as well as the character of both the physical and living things in the High Sierra. The character and timing of the seasons continue to change rapidly. It appears that the pace of change is actually accelerating.

Forever in a Passing Second

Physical engagement with nature while reflecting the natural process through your perception is a fundamental pleasure of backpacking. My joy in observing this exfoliation feature and the long processes surrounding are enhanced by my physical stress, while my perception goes beyond the alluring beauty of its shape itself and is expanded by enjoying the processes that controlled and created its beauty over time, and that of the surrounding valley, all of which become visible during the time I pass by.

This shit is special. Take the time to consider it carefully. Take all the time you need to see forever in a second.

New framework of perception

That's the fundamental reason I'm a solo long distance backpacker. Company is nice, but it tends to center too much of my perception on the social company itself, rather than allowing my mind to settle upon the fundamental operations of the environment.

Adjusting the body and mind over many days of hard travel through stunning natural terrain tunes the senses, which contributes to breaking-readjusting-your mental perceptions and definitions of what actually constitutes pain and pleasure. The natural environment can change the way you think.

Things are not as cut and dried as they may first appear. Expectations condition experiences.

This is potentially a harsh process, this adjustment to nature. But not necessarily so. Planning, from pre-trip training to short "practice" trips, to gradually increasing workloads on the trail over time are essential for laying the foundation for successful long distance travel. Independent of how well trained you are, there will be an adjustment phase.

I call this process the "transition" period. I have also referred to this process as "the scraper."

After the trail and you get together to redefine your perceptions, retune your metabolism, and re time your days, you are again ready to perceive yourself in nature. Put on your seatbelt. My point of transition is generally three to five days down the trail, from wherever I start.

The transition from noise to natural noise and the "roar of quiet." The adjustment to thin air and high angle trails. The specter of working all day long under a heavy pack.

Ticket Please

The beauty of nature has a brutal backside in its high admission price. Every step can be hard work. The pack can pain the shoulders, the rocks can batter the feet. Every obstacle can weaken you. Each obstacle must be overcome while laying your own foundation for long term strength, endurance, perception, and engagement. This is your ticket to a lifetime of deep engagement with the world around you and the things within you.

The end of this process is the beginning. Now that you are achieving access to nature and yourself it again comes down to the same question:

What to do with it.

How you answer this final question defines your character. It is like dotting the "i" or crossing the "T." First you gotta get there, then you gotta do it.

I say "enjoy the hike, the natural environment, your fellow hikers, and yourself."

 

Details of trail and terrain between the North and South sides of Fontanillis Lake

Big, Old, Granitic exfoliation Sunset over Fontanillis Lake and Dicks Pass
Delightful Trail Feature: Full Exfoliation. Shadow over trail along Eastern shore of Fontanillis Lake. Shadow descending over the Southeastern side of the Crystal Range beyond.
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Exceptional Views of Lake Tahoe reward us for our brief hike South up from Fontanillis Lake's Northern apron

Crack'in fine view of Tahoe and preceeding Lakes

Climbing South from Fontanillis Lake's Northern shore brings us to a unique view between the two rock prominences on the Northeast side of Fontanillis Lake.

From here we a glimpse of Lake Tahoe's Eastern shoreline over in Nevada, backed-up up by the Carson Range. Lower Velma Lake sits in the foreground.

Carson City lays in the Carson Valley on the other side of the Carson Range.

Lake Tahoe from Fontanillis rise

The same view of the Carson Range on the East side of Lake Tahoe as above, but at the max power of my mini-camera.

That's a shoulder of Maggies Peak in the Right foreground. Emerald Bay sits below and behind this shoulder of Maggies Peak.

Finally, camp on the South side of Fontanillis Lake

A brief hike South from the North Side of Fontanillis Lake brings you up and over the mountain shoulder that separates the Northern and Southern parts of Fontanillis Lake.

After crossing this shoulder, the trail climbs up to parallel the Eastern shore of Fontanillis Lake from above, and will shortly drop down to pass near the South end of the lake before begriming the climb up to the third Bayview Trail junction, which will bring us up to and past the North side of Dicks Lake.

MAP

Instead, I cut off the trail at the South end of Fontanillis lake, headed down to the lake, and found a nice little campsite on its Southeastern Shore.

Time to kick back.

Fontanillis camp, Northside View from north Fontanillis Lake campsite
Campsite on Southeast side of Fontanillis Lake. View from camp site: Forest and Rock tilted down towards Fontanillis Lake.

 

Camping Notes: Departing Fontanillis Lake

 

Sunrise, Late September 6:42 am or so

Temp before Sunrise: 43°

Clouds in morning, cleared nicely. The lack of mosquitoes and weather allowed me to use my tent as a pillow.

"or so" note: I record the Sunrise/Sunset times, the time of the transit of the Sun, and the Moon Phases for the day each trip begins as the header of my journal.

Astronomical Information

Last page North: Fontanillis Lake I                             top of page                                      South: 3rd Bayview Junction

Night two Campsite at Fontanillis Lake

 

The Hiking Plan in motion

Considering mileage, food, and physicality

Twilight was settling in over the basin holding Fontanillis Lake as I was climbing over the hump dividing the Northeastern from the Southeastern sides of the Lake. I was pretty thrashed after covering only 10.4 miles. But the 75 lb backpack was really a chore.

The second day out is when your trip planning, your daily hiking plan, and your food and rest calculations all come home to roost.

comments-questions-your hiking plan experiences.

Remember, on my last trip through here I was carrying enough food for the whole 172 mile trip between Meeks Bay and Tuolumne Meadows on the Pacific Crest Trail route.

Don't worry if you are following the Classic Tahoe to Yosemite route to Tuolumne Meadows: This Trail Guide covers both the Tahoe to Yosemite as well as the Pacific Crest Trail routes to Tuolumne.

To adjust these calculations to cover the Classic Tahoe to Yosemite route, just use 181 miles, rather than 172 miles to Tuolumne Meadows along the Pacific Crest Trail route, to calculate your daily miles relative to your food supply. Adjust each to suit your trail selection tastes, and resupply point preferences.

The food I was carrying constituted a fat 10 day supply of food that would stretch out into a solid 11 days of food if required, but it would be a thin 12 day food supply.

10 days equals 17.2 miles per day

11day equals 15.6 miles per day

12 days equal 14.3 miles per day

This may appear to be a little extreme, if you didn't know that I had just finished walking a long 470 mile route between Lake Tahoe and Mount Whitney. Considering my level of conditioning, this mileage plan was a bit pressing, but well within my capabilities.

I was already planning on saving food by filling my belly at the Lake Alpine Lodge when I crossed Highway 4, and at the Kennedy Meadows Pack Station, when I crossed Highway 108.

Including the first day's mileage, which was only 4.39 miles, I had covered 14.79 miles in two days. But the first day was a wash, as I arrived at the trailhead at 4:20pm.

Even better, I had eaten no trail food or dinner on the first day, so my 14.39 combined miles were done on one day's food. The first day was "free," so to speak. So the ratio between my miles per day and my food supply was looking pretty good, so far.

On the other hand, one of my bad knees was bugging the hell out of me, but it was mostly pain without performance deficit. The shoulders were hanging in there, but my strap repairs from earlier in the season were not really up to the backpack's weight. The straps were digging in deep, but they were not yet pulling my shoulder structure apart.

The "saddle sores" I had picked up on my earlier Tahoe to Whitney trip were looking ugly, but I was confident that I would eat enough food to avoid having the weight pull the skin off my shoulders while pulling my shoulders out of their sockets. I'm an optimist.

I eat roughly 2 to 2.5 pounds of food everyday.

Understand that there are two resupply points, Lake Alpine Lodge and Bear Valley on Highway 4, and Kennedy Meadows Pack Station on Highway 108 between Lake Tahoe and Yosemite where you can resupply. You DO NOT have to carry your whole food load. I am kind of stubborn.

I get these ideas in my head sometimes, like, "I can carry all my food between Lake Tahoe and Yosemite," or, "I can cross that mountain," and I go out and give it my best considered shot.

As it turns out, I can carry all of the food I need to backpack between Lake Tahoe and Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite. Especially as I stopped twice and fed my face like it was going out of style. Let's jump to the end of this particular trip:

The final Score

Meeks Bay to Tuolumne Meadows on Pacific Crest Trail Route

172 miles, Sept 15 to Oct 2, 2009

17 nights total

13 nights on the trail, 4 nights off on the trail.

Days off

2 nights camping near Highway 4, feasting at Bear Valley.

2 nights camping at Kennedy Meadows, feasting and drinking with the geology team and Cowboys.

 

13.23 miles per day on the trail over 13 nights.

This average is skewed downward by the first and last nights. The first day I arrived at the trailhead very late and did 4.5 miles, and the last day I departed very early, making the effective time on the trail 11.5 full days.

Consider that on Day 1 of my backpacking trip I hitch-hiked from Berkeley to Meeks Bay. Day 17 included hitch-hiking back to Berkeley from Tuolumne Meadows.

Subtracting the dead time puts my actual average daily mileage at 14.96 over 11 and 1/2 days of backpacking. These mileages fell roughly within the parameters of my original planning, for a 12 day trip.

I brought NO additional food onto the trail, but I did not eat much for one day on the trail after each "feed my face" stop, first to eat like a pig at Bear Valley, and then stopping to gorge at Kennedy Meadows.

Also a caloric consideration was making this trail guide. I did a minimum of 50 deep-knee bends a day chasing pictures of bugs, moths, snakes, ants, and squirrels. Almost every picture of lake and mountain required that I scramble up-mountain, and get up on that big boulder, to get the best picture possible.

It appears that seriously pursuing an accurate record of the trail and its travelers was adding the equivalent of six miles a day in "TIP" time. TIP time is "Time in Pack."

How much TIP time you spend to cross a distance is a measure of your trail efficiency. There is a big difference between completing 15 miles by 3 O'Clock in the afternoon and finishing this distance at 7:30 in the evening.

I was already running full TIP days, from before sunrise to twilight, though a big chunk of this time was spent recording, rather than hiking, the trails.

Think!

These were part of my ongoing food, mileage, physical, and personal considerations. Yours will be different. But if you do not seriously consider your relevant issues as they evolve and affect your body, your mileage, and your food situation, you can really set yourself up to suffer more than required by the trip itself. Knowing the situation you are in will arm you to make the proper decisions, even when the options are grim.

Sometime you're the Lightening, sometimes you're the Rod.

I have been noted for my careful considerations concerning food and mileage. When I was backpacking between Lake Tahoe and Mount Whitney in 1998, my given trail name was "The Calorie King."

They just started calling me that. Through-Hikers laughed after meeting me. They would say, after a little conversation, "Why, you're the Calorie King. they told me to look for you."

The Trail Speaks Through YOU. Your job is to Listen and Reflect what you hear.

Comments-Questions-And your Experiences setting up a hiking plan through here

Hiking Topo Map: Lake Genevieve to Phipps Pass                    Hiking Topo Map: Phipps Pass to Susie Lake

Miles and Elevations

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Fontanillis Lake I

 

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3rd Bayview Junction

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Backpacking Lake Tahoe to Mount Whitney

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