Index

Hiking the PCT South through the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness

MAP

Forum: comments-questions-your experiences

Basic Facts

Topo Maps

Wolf Creek to Swampy Lake

Swampy Lake to Boulder Lake Junction

Mileage

Murray Canyon to Boulder Lake trail junction: 6.84 miles

The Boulder Lake trail junction is 17.71 miles South of Ebbetts Pass

The Boulder Lake trail junction is 11.73 miles North of Sonora Pass

Trail heads East to Dumonts Meadow on the lower East Carson River.

Murray Canyon to the East Fork of the Carson River

The Lay of the Land on a Topo Map, Horse Stories, and some Hiking Options...

Murray and Golden Canyons on the big Bridgeport 30 min USGS Topo Map. Download your own.

The Eastern Option

As the following video describes, Murray Canyon and its trail drain down into Falls Meadow along the East Fork of the Carson River. I misspoke in the video. Hey, I'm pretty thrashed on the trail... Dumonts Meadow sits between the historic Soda Springs Ranger Station and the East Carson River. Falls Meadow is situated a couple of miles South of Dumonts Meadow, up the East Carson, where the Murray Canyon Trail from the PCT intersects with the East Fork of the Carson River.

note: For hikers familiar with accessing the East Carson River from the East, the tree ford that offered easy crossing of the East Carson at Dumonts Meadow is no longer usable. The river has finally separated the root ball from the Eastern shore. Fording Information, 2010. I could jump it during 2007 and 2008, but by '09 it was a jump too far... )

Nevertheless, Murray Canyon remains a hanging canyon sitting above Falls Meadow along the East Fork of the Carson River. The East side of Murray Canyon terminates abruptly, leaving the backpacker with a steep set of switchbacks cut into the East Carson River canyon-side from the East edge of Murray Canyon down to the East Carson River far below.

Murray Canyon Horse Story

Sharing the trail with our four-legged friends

I once watched two horse ladies ride up the very steepest section of the difficult trail up to the PCT via Murray Canyon from Falls Meadow. They were like athletes on their horses. Their horses were straining, bellies close to the ground, their upper front legs stretched out parallel with the terrain, and their lower legs digging in, clawing and pulling themselves up the steep terrain. The muscles on the horses legs were bulging out. They were churning up the mountainside like four-legged tractors.

The girls were moving on those horses like gymnasts on monkey bars, first hanging off one side, then the other, leaning far forward then far back, working in physical unison with their fine mounts as they clawed their way up the steep trail and around the obstacles. And they were big girls, moving so nimbly I can only call them horse ballerinas. It was a fine piece of riding. I was surprised as hell to see them up there.

I had seen them camping in Falls Meadow the evening before when I hiked in. We mutually waved, and did the polite hand signals across the width of the meadow. They were in the big site overlooking the East Carson just North of where Murray Creek joins the East Carson River. I could tell they did not want visitors or neighbors, so I headed up to the sites under Murray Falls, which gave us all privacy.

I departed up Murray Canyon long before they woke, and was at the top of the steepest part of the trail when I heard the straining, snorting, and cracking leather of their mounts climbing up the steep trail below me. I was amazed they were taking this route. Bad-assed. Not only was the trail very steep, but it was really suffering from the Spring Thaw, both from the saturation level of the soil, as well as the heavy degradation the thaw had done to the trail itself. I was climbing over and around boulders strewn along the narrow trail section that were not washed out. I was constantly having to climb around these washed out sections, which was hard for me. But my ears do not lie, and I knew that mounted riders would soon be upon me, so I had to act immediately.

Horse Sense

First, I never want to scare a mount, so I've got to properly position myself before the horse sees me. That's the key to all trail encounters: Observe the situation before it happens. Old-school trail horses are as stable as tractors and rarely freak out, but young mounts are incredibly skittish, and I'm determined not to spook a young mount, especially on dangerous trail. I once watched a Mexican Cowboy ride a young mount that executed a 360 degree panic spin, the horse ass-up and bucking, its front legs locking down and popping out with each buck, describing a very tight circle from buck to buck, in the high Emigrant Basin.

But the crazy bastard was not just bucking, but was also spinning sideways hard and fast with each buck. It was incredible.

A 40 mph howling wind and the trail's winding route between and around the huge granite boulders and formations rising out of the lush green meadow grasses just to the East of Emigrant Lake in the High Emigrant Basin made it impossible for me or the horseman to see or hear each other before me and the young horse were about eye-to-eye. That horse freaked out and took the cowboy for a spin. Literally.

The cowboy instantly hand-upped, raising one arm high above his head to balance himself in the spin as he stood straight up in the stirrups, heels locked in, reigns in the other hand, and rode that bucking horse all the way around, reigning it's terror first into a tight circle, and then into submission. He laughed and said "howdy, sorry about my horse, she's young," while the horse danced and snorted below him. It was a great piece of riding, and good thing it happened on the flat high-elevation meadow in the Emigrant Basin. I hated to have triggered that horse's panic, though as a result I was privileged to see that fine piece of horsemanship.

I pride myself on not freaking out man or beast, if at all possible. If I freaked out the ladies' horses on this steep trail, things could go way wrong way fast. A wreck here would be disastrous.

Hearing the girls climbing up below, I climbed about ten feet up the steep terrain above the trail, hid my pack so it would not bug the horses, took a low profile position, and started a bit of gentle clicking to reveal my position to both horse and rider just before they could see me. This way both the horse and rider were looking for me, rather than either being surprised to see me. Don't surprise horses on the trail.

The ears of the horses and the eyes of the horsewomen snapped towards me as they came into view up the mountain. The horses lost a little focus as they took me in, but my soft clicking and the reassurances of the riders kept them from losing their pace. I enjoyed watching a great piece of High Sierra riding as these women navigated their mounts up the harsh terrain. Wow.

Always observe the demeanor of the approaching horse, even when you've stashed yourself off trail as they approach. If the horse is skittish, don't even move. Make gentle noises and clicks, but don't move. If you are not sure, talk to the rider. If the horse and rider are chill, the horse may end up laying its head against your shoulder as you chat up the cowboy. I've met some pretty fine horses on the trail, and some tolerable cowboys too... he he. I've eaten filet mignon and drank cold beer and old scotch up and down the Sierra Crest, thanks to the fine cowboys I've met on the trail over the years.

Trail Rules

The "rules" of trail culture demand that the hiker give way to the horseman, and take a lower position on the trail as horses pass, as a lower position is less threatening to a horse than a high position. I modify this rule slightly. I always give way to horsemen, but I take the safest off-trail position when I let them pass by, which may or may not be the low position. You will rarely find me near the hooves of a horse, and never find me between a cliff and a horse. I generally go high to let horses pass by.

The incredibly difficult terrain that an experienced trail horse with an experienced trail rider can negotiate never ceases to amaze me. These animals and the people that ride them can be quite amazing.

Down to the East Carson from the PCT via Murray Canyon

From the Pacific Crest Trail the Murray Canyon Trail works its way into the North side of Murray Canyon, then follows Murray Creek until the creek plunges off the edge of its hanging canyon into a steep channel composing a series of falls, which finally crashes into a corner of Falls Meadow through the aptly named Murray Falls. Murray Falls drops into the West side of Falls Meadow just about a mile downstream from the Carson Falls.

Where the trail finally bottoms out in Falls Meadow you will find that you have to cross Murray Creek, a few steps to your left to the North, to reach either the campsites in Falls Meadow overlooking East Fork of the Carson River (beavers, bears, birds,...) or the campsites nestled in next to Murray Falls. Both sites are on the North side of Murray Creek.

Here in Falls Meadow the East Carson River has ended its steeper cascade down-mountain. The steep parts of the river are above Carson Falls. The river flattens out after passing through the labyrinth of Carson Falls.

To the left of our Murray Canyon junction with Falls Meadow sits Murray Creek. Cross it to the North, then follow the sound of Murray Falls upstream to a set of nice campsites nestled under the mountain alongside Murray Falls and Creek. But by far the best place to camp and explore around here is at Carson Falls, just about a mile South of where the Murray Canyon trail enters Falls Meadow.

Carson Falls is composed of a massive granite plug at the transition point between the steeper drop of the East Carson above the Falls from the gentle meadow-side river course below. Well, the East Carson is gentle during mid-Summer and mid-Winter. During Spring and Fall the East Carson River is charged up above and below Carson Falls.

Carson Falls

Over the ages the East Fork of the Carson River has cut a serpentine course deeply into the massive block of granite that makes up the Carson Falls, creating a long series of "pocket falls," consisting of waterfalls inset into and winding a serpentine route through its deeply cut channel through the rock. The East Carson has cut a gorge where, over thousands of years, the East Carson River has cut a deeply submerged serpentine river-course through this massive rock formation on its way down to Falls Meadow.

I'll bet that just a few thousand years ago the East Carson River emptied out into Falls Meadow over this granite plug, before the river cut into the rock. I'll bet that the falls off of the edge of this block into Falls Meadow was in the form of a curtain of waterfalls over a quarter of a mile wide during the Spring Thaw.

It must have been a real sight. But now the East Carson River has cut a very deep and very beautiful twisted route thorough this massive granite plug that is worthy of taking a day or two to explore before you hike up the un maintained East Carson River Trail to join the PCT high up the river course.

You can plan a number of point to point or circle trips through this very special area using Ebbetts Pass from the North, Sonora Pass from the South, Corral Valley from the East, and Disaster Creek from the West. I especially enjoy accessing the East Carson River and the Pacific Crest Trail from the East through the Corral Valley Trailhead.

Carson Falls Trail to the PCT

Above Carson Falls a log ford brings you over to the East shore, and shortly South of this ford you encounter the deep horse ford and campsite that marks where the Golden Canyon trail heads up to the Pacific Crest Trail on the West side of the river. South of Golden Canyon the unmaintained East Carson River Trail route up to the Pacific Crest Trail remains do-able for experienced backpackers, but it has not been maintained for very many years.

South of Golden Canyon the visible trail route climbs up the mountainside. We follow it to find the trail disappear into, #1, either a steep gorge jammed with massive boulders, or #2, a seemingly impenetrable wall of brush. Those are your first route choices on the unmaintained trail...

I rate the East Carson River Route between Carson Falls and the Pacific Crest Trail as a Great Three-Season route. But it is not for the faint of heart, the unfit, or inexperienced backpackers at any time, and especially when covered with Spring and Fall snows. The "trail" between Carson Falls South to the Pacific Crest Trail along the East Carson River is a route-finding challenge even during the peak of Summertime.

Neither your maps nor your GPS will help you much in this section. Only good old route-finding skills and trail sense will assist your navigation through this rough section. There are three or four points of decision that are below the resolution of the maps that require some interpretation and pondering.

It is at these points of decision where the resolution of human technology still far exceeds that of our tools, especially as tools have no interpretive capacity. Maps and GPS are only as beneficial as their application allows you to make correct decisions. The tools do not make decisions.

The best Mapping and GPS tools are always limited to the effectiveness of the user.

Horse and Cowboy forum.

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Video: Murray Canyon Trail Junction. Time: 2:26

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Sunrays over Murray Canyon. You had to be there... but you get the idea.

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8960 feet, July 2009. Lovely color and shape.

Comments-ID?

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This is the snowberm during July of 2009. Note the heavy snow berm during October in the video from 2011. The picture above is within "normal" (whatever that is...) seasonal ranges, while the massive snowberm of October 2011 is indicative of the heavy snow pack that kept the high trails covered until mid August of 2011.

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Video: Hiking Murray and Golden Canyons. 7:59

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Stanislaus Peak in distant foreground, Sonora Peak in distant Left background.

The Tahoe to Yosemite route follows the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus up towards Saint Marys Pass on the West (Right) side of this massif, between our position and the distant-Right ridge line.

Our Pacific Crest Trail route passes under their Eastern (Left) shadow on our the way to Sonora Pass.

The Southern Sharkfin, Peak 9501, is seen marking the South end of Golden Canyon in the Left foreground of the image.

Check the 7.5 USGS Topo Map

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This view of Stanislaus Peak is from the unmaintained trail on the East side of the East Fork of the Carson River upstream from Carson Falls, heading up to the Pacific Crest Trail the hard way. October 2009. This perspective is looking West from the East side of the East Fork of the Carson River. I went in from the East after a Fall storm laid a nice coat of snow onto the terrain.

This USGS topo map shows the un maintained route up the East Fork of the Carson River. Look for Carson Falls on the far Right or East side of the topo map. The unmaintained route stretches from Carson Falls up to its junction with the Pacific Crest Trail.

Access is from the East, off of Highway 395 between Walker and Coleville.

Our goal to the South across this section of trail is marked by the East Carson Gap. The Pacific Crest Trail crosses this 10,240 foot low point in the dead center of the East Carson headwaters bowl seen below.

The East Carson Gap sits between the 11,459 feet of Sonora Peak rising to the West, right in the image below and White Peak's 11,324 feet rising to the East.

The gap is just visible from our position between Murray and Golden Canyons in this long telephoto image.

The PCT climbs up to the low point in the gap from the right...

Beyond the gap Wolf Creek Lake sits on its little shelf nestled-in under the Eastern Flank of Sonora Peak.

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The North side of Golden Canyon to the Southern Sharkfin

The Lay of the Land, Options...

You encounter a metamorphic "sharkfin" formation approaching Murray and Golden Canyons from either the North or the South. The video clips in the following film show the sharkfins located on the Northern side of Murray Canyon and the one that marks the Southern side of Golden Canyon.

The Sharkfin on the Northern side of Murray Canyon is noted as Peak 9362 while the one on the Southern end of Golden Canyon is Peak 9501. Murray and Golden Canyons are located between these landmarks.

These sharkfin formations are identifiable as metamorphic rock similar to the structure at Devils Post Pile. The difference is that these rock piles did not cool at the proper time and temp to produce the perfect octagonal hexagonal columns as the rock at the Postpile did, before being up thrust to the Earth's surface.

These sharkfins are composed of uneven columns of rock that are falling apart, falling into the rough outline of sharkfins to the distant solo hiker.

Added to the sharktooths formed along the Sierra crestline by erosion of the hard volcanic crestline to our North, I note this section of trail from Wolf Creek Pass to the South end of Golden Canyon "sharkfin and sharktooth territory." These unique features are great landmarks.

These metamorphic features also add a third type of terrain to the volcanic and granite interface along the East Carson River.

Check out the following video for a look at this section of the Pacific Crest Trail.

MAP

Mileage

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The deeply-cut PCT dropping into the North side of Golden Canyon. Such deeply cut sections of the trail are rare in the North Sierra. This particular example is as much a product of its location and role in the Spring Thaw as it is of backpacker traffic.

A couple of block-rocks properly set will stop the Spring Thaw from continuing to cut a seasonal creek through this section of trail.

We can see Boulder Creek's Western drainage behind Golden Canyon's Southern limit.

The PCT bends around to the Right, to follow the perimeter of Golden Canyon up high enough to keep it above the wetness of the Spring Thaw.

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The Pacific Crest Trail heads South along the upper rim of Golden Canyon.

During Summertime it sometimes seems as if the trail takes the "long way" around rather than across features such as Golden Canyon. One look at the quagmire conditions that come with the Spring Thaw will show you why the trail route stays high on the mountain.

The trails are intentionally designed to loop around areas of early-season wetness.

Trail routings that make no sense at all during Summertime are the height of Trail Route Logic during the Spring Thaw.

Check the Trail Crew and Trail Work Forum.

Check the 7.5 USGS Topo Map

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Watch these Bad Boys Carefully!

Heading South on the Pacific Crest Trail we have a long exposed crossing coming up. When we climb South out of the East Carson Headwaters we will have about 5 miles of high elevation exposed travel as we cross the barren flank of Sonora Peak to reach Sonora Pass.

To the North we face the exposed crossing of Tyron Peak.

Crossing these exposed sections is going to be highly unadvisable if these thunder clouds continue to mass up, deepen, and build strength as we approach our high exposed crossing.

My observations indicate these conditions build until 2 pm in the afternoon, when they explode into thunderstorms packing heavy lightening and downpours. These storm conditions will continue until sunset, and these daily afternoon storms will run from 2 pm until sunset for as many days as the optimal storm conditions continue.

If these clouds consolidate into a thunder storm we will make camp in a safe position rather than attempting an exposed crossing in extremely dangerous lightening conditions.

Observe. Engage. Anticipate. Act.

Mountain Safety Forum

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The Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River with the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail running alongside it is sitting at the base of the third mountain mass dominating the center-left of the image above.

The Boulder Lake Trail runs between the first and second ridges below us in the image above, connecting the Pacific Crest Trail with the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail.

See Fall Report: Carson-Iceberg Oct 2011 for a discussion of trail conditions and the message mole casings on the trail in October is sending.

Both the Tahoe to Yosemite and Pacific Crest Trail routes were littered with mole casings during October of 2011, signs of the very short Summer of 2011.

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Golden Canyon drops away to our Left in the foreground, the Southern Sharkin sits middle-left marking the Southern extent of Golden Canyon and the location of the swampy lake, and the great gorge of the East Carson shows us our way South towards its headwaters bowl sitting under the Southwestern flank of White Mountain in the distant Right of the image above.

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One beat Al, East Carson River Headwaters during a trip up through the East Carson, Winter of 1998.

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The hard granite terrain making up the East Fork of the Carson River was first deeply and steeply cut into a narrow North-South valley by glacial ice.

The toughness of the rock and its tight jointing resisted the power of the ice, only allowing a narrow channel to be cut through the rock. The rock did not allow this channel to be cut Eastward, downward with the flow of gravity out of the Sierra, but forced the ice to flow North.

The gorge and its surrounding terrain was subsequently flooded-drowned really-10,000 years ago by ancient flows of volcanic debris from a series of massive eruptions. These flows were thousands of feet deep. Super-Lahars, I would say.

I think about the timing of the last massive volcanic eruptions that rocked the Sierra as I observe the remnants of the ancient ferocity of their Lahar flows. The remnants of these flows stretch down the Sierra Crestline from Lake Tahoe to South of Reds Meadow creating a convoluted interface between granite, volcanic, and metamorphic rock with small bits of Super-Ancient pre-Sierra uplift rock thrown in for good measure.

I imagine massive volcanic eruptions from Lake Tahoe down to Mammoth Mountain exploding out from under and around deep granite valleys already buried under thousands of feet of glacial ice. What a mess that made.

Judging by the scope of these ancient lahar flows, which were big enough to literally bury tall mountains and drown deep valleys under thousands of feet of flowing liquid volcanic debris, many of these granite valleys quickly transformed their massive loads of ice into massive lahar flows.

For thousands of years since then some of the granite peaks of these submerged mountains stuck out through their surrounding ocean of volcanic debris. Runoff water cut rivers into the volcanic debris filling granite valleys buried below. For thousands of years granite islands were the only sign of the existence of the grand granite terrain buried far below.

Today the ancient granites of the East Carson River are emerging from their volcanic grave. The terrain is losing its volcanic jacket.

Thousands of years of water, ice, wind, tectonic uplift, and chemical breakdown have scoured some of the soft but persistent volcanic remnants off of the underlying granites along the East Fork of the Carson River, revealing the grandeur of the ancient granites below.

The Pacific Crest Trail winds around and through many of these granite islands floating in this slowly diminishing high tide of volcanic debris as we hike through the East Carson River drainage.

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Each of these hanging canyons has a major creek running out of it. I've long looked at both of these remote canyons as potential places to explore. I'll bet that both these valleys are full of bear, deer, and trout.

Silver King Creek sits on the backside, the East side of Whitecliff Peak and its hanging canyons. It is incredibly quiet back there along the Silver King Creek.

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I'm always trying to figure out distant mountains to better understand where I am in the grand context of the Sierra.

The Tahoe to Yosemite Trail runs below us along the near base of these mountains, while Highway 108 runs along the base of their far side.

The PCT and TYT routes are drawing close together as each trail follows its respective drainage up to Sonora Peak. The PCT follows the East Carson River along the East flank of the Sierra to its headwaters below the Northeast side of Sonora Peak, while the TYT follows the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River up to its headwaters below the West flank of Sonora Peak.

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The upper image was taken in October of 2011 and reflects the snow cover that remained on the mountains through the shortened Summer backpacking season.

Local MAP

Regional MAP

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The PCT North and South.

Topo Map -- Carson Iceberg Topo Map

Disaster Creek Trail

Miles

From the Disaster Creek Trailhead to its Northern junction with the trail from Gardner Meadow to Wolf Creek Pass, the length of the Disaster Creek Trail is 7.02 miles.

Disaster Creek Trailhead to Lower Gardner Meadow

Disaster Creek Trailhead                               0                                                                               

1st Junction, to PCT S of Boulder Peak        2.83

                                                                      .08

2nd Junction, to PCT @ Golden Canyon       2.91

                                                                     1.27

3rd Junction, spur trail                                 4.18

                                                                        .75

Entering Arnot                                              4.93

                                                                         .72

Arnot Creek ford                                            5.65

                                                                         .52

Junction with Arnot Creek Trail / Upper Gardner Meadow                                                         6.17

                                                                          .85

Junction with Gardner Meadow Trail               7.02

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Golden Canyon Campsites

The Lay of the Land

Just South of the Golden Canyon-Paradise Valley trail junction on the Pacific Crest Trail sits a little city of campsites on a wide forested flat.

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Video: Golden Canyon Campsites, 1:04.

Check the 7.5 USGS Topo Map

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No shade, but fresh cold water.

A short ways South of here you exit Golden Canyon approaching the Swampy Lake and Sharkfin 9501.

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South Sharkfin & The Swampy Lake

The Lay of the Land

Check your map USGS Disaster Peak 7.5 quadrangle against your hiking map. Your hiking map should depict this lake as swampy... If not, your map is wrong.

Check the 7.5 USGS Topo Map

Unmaintained Trail Section

Note that there is a trail junction at the lowest left corner of the map. This unmarked and unmaintained trail runs down to Disaster Creek. I've never hiked down it, but tracks I've observed here indicate that this trail is used heavily by horses in Fall.

I've always entertained an unspoken assumption that the cowboys who come up here for Fall Roundup have a campsite down there. That's what the tracks indicated during a couple of Fall trips through here, and it accounts for my observations. This area has long been under grazing leases.

The cowboys are all over the mountains during late September and early October.

This rough cross-country trail twists its way Northeast down to a junction on the Disaster Creek Trail 2.83 miles North of the Disaster Creek Trailhead at the top of the Clarks Ford Road. If you head North up Disaster Creek you will have a 4.19 mile up to the junction with the trail between Gardner Meadow and Wolf Creek Pass.

I have a picture of this faint trail off of the Pacific Crest Trail, but I can't find it...

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The uniform nature of the metamorphic rock causes a uniform breakdown of the feature over time.

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Can you hear the mosquitoes buzzing? I can.

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Video: South Sharkfin and Swampy Lake. 3:37

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Note how the toe prints share footprints... the arc of the toes give it away. The upper bear print overlaps the lower, with the toes centering both.

The last wet soil conditions here sufficient for these prints was 10 days prior.

Bear Country

This is Bear Country. Lots of bears have been prospering in these mountains for centuries. There is a big rectangle of terrain on the Southeast side of the Carson Iceberg Wilderness filled with remote untrailed mountains and valleys that has provided excellent almost-undisturbed bear habitat for a very long time.

These are not the human acclimated fat bears you see in Yosemite Valley, though there have been some disturbing behavior changes during the last decade. These bears still sleep at night, still fear people, and generally only tap humans for food in quick twilight "hit and runs," when they try to snatch up goodies as they bolt across your camp when you step out of camp.

A fat, fully Human-acclimated Yosemite Bear sneers at such haste and discretion. Acclimated bears just walk right into camp with me standing right there, peruse my food defenses at their leisure, while I beat a retreat and commence bouncing rocks off bear's head. The bear says, "Ho-Hum, rocks are below my notice," and continues to nonchalantly scout out my resources.

Partially acclimated bears are very nervous approaching humans. "Nervous" around humans is the status of the most aggressive bears along this section of the trail, by my observations. They're very nervous, and scare off easily.

But, bears are also very hungry, and if they have been previously successful at obtaining food from humans their hunger will control their fear, and bear will try again. It is your job to reward the bear by making it regret ever approaching humans.

Don't ever hurt the bear, but thankfully instilling fear does not require pain. Hurt the bear's feelings. The slow but sure trend of increasing bear contact through here is likely to decline. Bear hunting has started up earnestly in these mountains again, out of the Little Antelope Pack Station.

This will certainly reverse the recent slow trend of bears becoming more aggressive in this area. Once they figure out that people are shooting them they will stay as far away from us humans as they can.

I put the prints at 3 days +, though the nearby turds appeared older.

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There's lots of bears in the East Carson River Valley and its associated remote Eastern drainages including the Silver King Creek and Fish Valley.

The bears here have long been scared of humans, but during the last ten years they have been getting acclimated to people, and getting more "aggressive." Prior to this trend they were opportunistic.

Little Antelope Pack Station has begun active operations again, which includes bear hunting. This appears to have put the fear of humans back into the bears of the East Carson River and its associated drainages.

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Swampy Lake to Boulder Lake Trail Junction

The Lay of the Land

The trail undulates up and down between Sharkfin 9501 to the Boulder Lake junction as it snakes around the Sierra crest line peaks.

Down the West side of Boulder Peak: Nice campsites!

Mileage

MAP

We get our first full look at the grandeur of the East Carson Granite as the trail works its way South out of Golden Canyon. A grand view up the East Carson River opens up as we swing East to a fine overlook after passing South between the Sharkfin and the Swampy Lake.

Continuing South the trail executes a ninety-degree turn West to begin dropping down to cross the highest reach of Boulder Creek on the West side of Boulder Peak. After crossing tiny Boulder Creek the trail bends Southward to almost parallel the creek South. Fifty feet South of Boulder Creek there are fine camps on both sides of the trail.

After climbing South past the creek and the campsites the trail turns directly East to climb up through a beautiful granite and forest channel up to the very edge of the East Carson River's gorge on the South side of Boulder Peak. Here we again get an excellent view of our upcoming terrain South, or back at the terrain we just crossed if we are hiking North. Always turn around!

Sometimes the best views are behind you.

We continue the moderate climb South that began when we crossed Boulder Creek, but now the trail South is tracing the arcing top edge of a steep tributary chute plunging down to the East Carson River far below. We work our way up and over a ridge arm descending off the Sierra crest down the Western Sierra flank. This ridge arm divides two of the Westward draining canyons that feed Boulder Lake and Creek.

Everything to our East of where we are standing drains into the East Carson River, and flows East into the desert. Everything West of where we are standing eventually drains into the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River, and ends up in the Pacific Ocean.

Or a faucet in L.A...

After topping this nicely forested Sierra ridgecrest we have a short walk down to the Boulder Lake Trail Junction.

The Boulder Lake Trail junction is 17.71 miles South of Ebbetts Pass.

The Boulder Lake Trail junction is 11.73 miles North of Sonora Pass.

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Between Peak 9501 and the switchbacks down to (near) the East Carson River the PCT is constantly moving East and West and Up and Down following its convoluted route right along the actual crest line dividing the Eastern and Western drainages off of the Sierra Crest, while enjoying the amazing views in all directions this convoluted route provides through holes in the forest cover and high spots.

This section does not look like much on the map, but it will work you hard for the views.

You should be ready for this difficult terrain by now.

Pacific Crest Trail Hiker Note

IF you are coming North through here on the Pacific Crest Trail you have just ended the very difficult 75 mile long "Five Canyons" section between Tuolumne Meadows and Sonora Pass. This current section of trail between Sonora and Ebbetts Pass will be a cakewalk compared to the previous section of the trail, but it is likely that you will underestimate the challenge that the Sonora to Ebbetts Pass section presents. You will pick up speed on this section, but not as much as you thought.

I watch you guys every year. I watch the Spring Thaw carefully to inform you of its particulars, and I almost always plan a long trip South down the PCT at just the right time of Summer so I can get a good sample of the character of each year's crop of Pacific Crest Trail hikers. (2010 PCT & Hiker Sample-this guide contains all prior PCT hikers encountered and photographed...) And I report what I see. I've seen PCT hikers expect that crossing this section between Sonora and Ebbetts Passes would be easier than it is.

Southbound Tahoe to Whitney Hikers

Reaching Sonora Pass will put the Southbound hiker coming out of Meeks Bay at around a hundred miles of hiking, give or take a few odd miles. The PCT route South from Lake Tahoe gets gradually harder as you head further South through each section of the trail, and this section between Ebbetts and Sonora Passes is the most difficult yet. The next section between Sonora Pass and Tuolumne Meadows is harder, higher, and twice the distance.

As with the Northbound PCT hiker, you too have gradually become hardened by your previous sections and should be ready for the toughest section yet. Or not. The section between Ebbetts and Sonora Pass is your first section of sustained high elevation travel.

All Hikers

You have to judge your physical condition and make good decisions as you proceed down the trail. If you need a day off or two to rest and feed up before crossing the Carson-Iceberg Southbound, then hitch down to Lake Alpine, set up a nice pirate campsite in the National Forest lands, head over to the Lake Alpine Lodge or Bear Valley, and kick back to eat and rest for a full day.

The same opportunity exists at Kennedy Meadows on the South side of the Carson-Iceberg.

Northbound hikers have just resupplied, rested, and fed up at Kennedy Meadows Pack Station and should be well fueled and rested for this, their last section of difficult high elevation trail. Trail difficulty moderates on each of the next two trail sections heading North into the Lake Tahoe Basin.

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This section is full of fine terrain that I strongly suggest you take the time to observe... Too many PCT hikers run through here with their eyes glued to the trail, seeing nothing of the environment they are passing through.

I see new things every time I hike the same trail.

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Located between the Swampy Lake and Boulder Creek.

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She was a bit skittish and inclined to split.

Deer Forum t op of page

Hey Baby! How's Life? She was fat, strong, and looking sharp.

She was thinner than the stout girl at Round Lake and certainly not as crazy as the deer running around Fourth of July Lake.

The quiet sound of tinkling water, the refreshing moist air in the little concentration of forest within the fold of the mountain here, and the relaxing forms of the granite made me look for the nice campsite I knew would be nearby.

Map

Miles and Elevations

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Note the huge granite dome feature I call "the plug," rising out of the right bank of the East Carson River, middle-distant. The PCT circles around the backside of the plug before switch-backing down to the East fork of the Carson River.

The trail coming up the other side of the East Carson River, along the East shore far below us, has to get past the plug before fording the East Carson and joining up with the Pacific Crest Trail.

South of the plug the trail parallels the East Carson River up to the headwaters. North of the plug the Pacific Crest Trail climbs to follow the Sierra crest line along the West Rim of the East Carson.

Check the 7.5 USGS Topo Map

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I met Steve's three stock-seeking dogs before I met Steve. Funny Story.

The dogs thought I was a cow, and I thought the dogs were wild. When they came through the underbrush to "round me up" I was ready to do battle with dogs.

Listening to three animals approaching and flanking me was disquieting. Bears do not travel in packs, neither do coyotes, so I guessed wild dogs were on my trail. They were intentionally tracking and flanking me.

I charged the dog on the left as they broke through the underbrush in unison. I saw what I instantly thought were three crazy dogs who had somehow packed-up in the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness. The dogs instantly knew they had met a frkn crazy backpacker. As far as I was concerned it was on. The dogs would die and I would live.

The dogs, on their part of the deal, were quite surprised that I was not a cow, and were even more shocked that someone was charging them with threats of mayhem, death and a big stick.

The dogs made themselves scarce quick. I instantly noted their puzzled looks and the fear in their eyes sparked by my aggression. This instantly informed me that they were not lost or wild dogs. I said, "good dogs," and all three wagged their tails in unison from their safe observation spots, as I expected they were. They were a team of working dogs. Then I heard the mounted rider coming hard and fast up the mountain.

Steve rode hard up the mountain when he heard my battle-cry, knowing his dogs had not found the cow they were tracking. Steve rode up apologizing profusely. I assured him that all was well that ended well. The dogs returned and we had a formal introduction. They were not getting anywhere near me until Steve called them in.

Steve's dogs were tracking a stubborn stray up Boulder Creek's drainage. His dogs had the wind to their backs and picked me up with their ears, so their noses had not rejected me as a bovine target.

The dogs came in and nosed my hand, and let me give them a quick pat, but they were more concerned with finding the cow they were chasing than hanging out with me. They were good working dogs who liked their job as much as Steve.

Steve's family has had a stock lease up here for generations. They come out in late September and early October to start rounding up their grazing stock and comb the deep valleys for strays and stubborn cows.

Steve was as nice a guy as his picture indicates. We spoke for a while and went on with our different tasks through the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness.

Down the trail his dad and brother rode by fast a couple of times trying to box-in the stubborn stray. The stray was doing everything in his power to avoid capture. The cowboys were chasing the cow through the mountainside ravines, then cutting up to the PCT to ride fast and hard to get in front of the stray's maneuvers, then cut off the trail back down the mountain to force the stray back down the drainage.

Just another day in the Sierra.

Late Sept 2009.

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On the Left of this image there is a low ridge of brighter green trees descending SW in front of the higher ridge behind. The larger second ridge is capped with a granite crown coming down from the far Left of the image.

Out of view to our left between these two ridges is where the trail route down from the Pacific Crest Trail to Boulder Lake heads West off the Sierra Crest. Directly in front of us is another drainage down to Boulder Lake, though un-trailed. A spider-web of trails run down across the central flat that holds Boulder Lake before joining Boulder Creek on its way down to the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River.

The Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus runs Westward in front of the mountain mass in the middle-distant center of the image, which is exactly where Boulder Creek joins the Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus River at the end of the drainage we are overlooking.

Crossing the low ridge on the left, to our South, will bring us to the Boulder Lake trail junction on the other side.

Map

Miles and Elevations

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From the South Side of Boulder Peak we can view details of "The Plug," Peak 8990 to our South, while overlooking the steepening upper reaches of the East Fork of the Carson River.

We will pass around the backside, the West or Right side of The Plug to the switchbacks down to the East Carson River beyond.

Above: "The Plug," a feature on the East Shore of the East Carson River. Note Sonora Peak in far distant right under tree branch.

From our position here on the South side of Boulder Peak we have a brief climb before the PCT drops down to meet the Boulder Lake Trail. There is another set of two short climbs South of the Boulder Lake trail junction that bring us around the backside of "The Plug."

The next ridgecrest we climb is visible to our South above the exposed rock you can see poking through the trees between our position and The Plug.

Crossing over that ridge the Southbound trail then turns West to traverse down the ridge's far side to a black pond before climbing Southeast to pass behind "The Plug."

I can simplify this: From here you go up & down, then up & down again. Then up one more time to behind "The Plug." On the other side of The Plug you have a short walk to the switchbacks down to the East Carson River.

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Cranky Bears?

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Backpacking Trail Guide

North PCT

Tyron Peak to Murray Canyon

West to the TYT

Boulder Lake Trail to Clarks Fork of the Stanislaus

Backpacking Trail Guide

South PCT

Boulder Lake Junction to East Carson River